Near the sacred Shaman Rock, on Cape Burkhan itself, stands one of Olkhon`s most sacred and mysterious objects — a row of 13 ritual Serghe pillars. These are not merely tourist decorations but a living monument to an ancient spiritual tradition, inextricably linked to the rock and its powerful spirits.
Appearance and Location
The Serghe pillars are installed on the elevation of Cape Burkhan, facing the Maloye More (Small Sea), forming a symbolic boundary between the world of humans and the world of Shaman Rock`s spirits. These are wooden pillars of varying heights, often with carved ornaments. They are always adorned with numerous tied colorful ribbons. Similar ribbons can be seen on the surrounding trees.
Legends and Symbolic Meaning
The origin and meaning of the 13 pillars are shrouded in legends, with several interpretations.
The 13 Sons of Tengri (Sky Spirits)
The most common belief holds that these pillars symbolize the 13 supreme sons of the divine Tengri—the sky spirits and patrons revered by the Buryats as creators of the world. It was believed these spirits descended from the heavens and found refuge here, near the sacred rock, to be closer to people and hear their requests. Thus, the Serghe serve as a connection point with the higher powers.
A Place of Judgment and Ordeal
According to another legend, this place was not only for prayers but also for trials. A person accused of a serious crime could be tied to one of the pillars overnight. It was believed the spirits of Shaman Rock and Cape Burkhan would judge them. If by morning their mind remained clear and they were alive, they were forgiven. If they went mad or died, their guilt was proven. This legend echoes a similar belief about the Shaman Cave.
Sacrificial Pillars
In ancient times, shamans performed sacrificial rituals here (typically involving animals). Horses were tied to the pillars, destined to serve the spirits in the other world. This was a gift to appease the deities and ask them for prosperity for the entire clan.
Connection to Shaman Rock
The connection between the Serghe and Shaman Rock is not merely geographical—it is functional and spiritual.
• The Vestibule of the Temple: If Shaman Rock with its cave is the altar, the Holy of Holies, where only a shaman could enter, then the Serghe are the outer courtyard of the temple, a place accessible to all believers. It is a buffer zone where ordinary people could appeal to the spirits without disturbing the peace of the formidable ruler of Olkhon residing in the cave.
• An Energy Corridor: It is believed the pillars form an energy corridor, directing people`s pleas and prayers from the foot of the hill directly to the "gate between worlds" — the Shaman Cave.
• A Unified Sacred Complex: Together, the rock and the pillars form a single ritual complex where each element plays its role: the rock is the spirit`s dwelling, and the Serghe is the place for communication with it.
The Ritual of Tying Ribbons (Zalaa)
The custom of tying colorful ribbons to the Serghe Pillars and surrounding trees is an ancient tradition called "zalaa". This is not just a pretty gesture but a profound ritual with strict rules.
What does the ribbon symbolize?
The ribbon (zalaa or jalamа) is your sign of respect to the spirit-masters ("ezhins") of this place and your materialized prayer. By trying it, you literally "attach" your wish or gratitude to this place of power.
How to perform the ritual correctly?
• Acquiring the Ribbon: The ribbon should not be bought in a regular shop as a souvenir. It must be received as a gift or purchased from residents in Khuzhir who understand the ritual`s sacred meaning. Traditional colors are white (symbolizing purity and wellbeing), blue (sky), green (life), red (protection, energy), yellow (faith, wealth).
• The Right Mindset: Approach the pillars with pure intentions. Do not make wishes that could harm others.
• The Process: Approach a chosen tree or pillar. Mentally or in a whisper, formulate your desire or speak words of gratitude to the spirits of Baikal and Olkhon.
• Tying the Ribbon: Tie the ribbon to a tree branch or to the pillar itself. Tie two knots, symbolizing the strong connection of your intention with this place. The ends of the ribbon should hang freely.
Important Prohibitions:
• DO NOT use synthetic ribbons that do not decompose (e.g., polypropylene) for the ritual. This defiles the sanctuary. Use only natural fabrics (cotton, silk).
• DO NOT tie ribbons to dry, dead trees.
• DO NOT look back or glance behind you after tying the ribbon. Leave with a feeling of completion and faith.
The 13 Serghe Pillars are a key to understanding Olkhon`s spiritual culture. They show that the sanctity of Shaman Rock is not limited to the single rock but extends to the entire surrounding area. By coming here to tie a ribbon, a person becomes part of a millennia-old tradition, continuing the dialogue between people and the spirits of great Baikal.
