Just eight kilometers from the resort of Oludeniz, on the slope of a picturesque hill, lies one of the most atmospheric places on the Turkish coast — the abandoned village of Kayakoy, also known by its historical Greek name Levissi. This is not just ruins, but a real ghost town, where time stopped almost a hundred years ago, leaving behind hundreds of stone houses, two churches, a school, and fountains.
Today, Kayaköy is an open-air museum, included by UNESCO in its list of sites as the "World Village of Friendship and Peace." Thousands of tourists come here every year to wander through the empty streets, touch history, and feel that special, poignant atmosphere that cannot be found on any beach.
History of Kayakoy: from Antiquity to the Tragedy of the 20th Century
The history of this place goes back to ancient times. In antiquity, the Lycian city of Karmylessos was located here, but Kayaköy acquired its modern appearance much later — in the 18th century. It was then that the Greek population founded a settlement here, which came to be called Levissi.
By the beginning of the 20th century, Levissi was a flourishing city with a population, according to various estimates, of between 6,500 and 20,000 people. They were predominantly Greek Orthodox, who for centuries lived in relative harmony with their Turkish Muslim neighbors. The city was famous for its craftsmen, shoemakers, and merchants, and even surpassed neighboring Fethiye in importance, which at that time was only a small port.
Connection with St. Nicholas Island
The history of Kayakoy is closely intertwined with the fate of St. Nicholas Island, which is located just a few kilometers from the coast. In the 7th century AD, when the island was attacked by Arab pirates, its inhabitants left their homes and moved to the mainland, founding a settlement on the site of modern-day Kayaköy. Thus, the ancient traditions and memory of the holy patron of sailors migrated from the island to the mainland, and Kayaköy became the heir to this rich history.
Years of Prosperity of Kayaköy
During its heyday, Levissi was a well-planned city. About 500-600 two-story stone houses were built in such a way as not to block each other`s light and to open up picturesque views of the valley. The city had schools, churches, drinking water fountains, cisterns for storing water, and workshops. Life here flowed measuredly and peacefully until the dramatic events of the early 20th century.
The Exodus: How the City Became a Ghost
The fate of Kayakoy changed dramatically after the Greco-Turkish War of 1919-1922. In 1923, the Treaty of Lausanne was signed, which included an agreement on the compulsory population exchange between Greece and Turkey. The Greek Orthodox population of Turkey, including all the inhabitants of Levissi, was subject to expulsion to Greece. In return, the empty city was to be settled with Muslims from the Greek region of Macedonia.
History has preserved many tragic details of this exodus. The Greek inhabitants left their homes in a hurry, many were sure they would return soon. Some even left their children in the care of Turkish friends, hoping to pick them up later. But they were never destined to return.
The Muslims resettled in Kayakoy did not take root in the new place. They did not like the houses with blue walls — it was believed that the color blue repelled scorpions and snakes, but for the new residents, it was alien. In addition, the climate and living conditions differed from what they were used to. Gradually, almost all the settlers left the village, moving to more comfortable places.
The final blow to the abandoned city was dealt by the devastating earthquake of 1957, which damaged many of the already deteriorating buildings. Since then, Kayakoy has stood empty, slowly decaying under the influence of winds, rains, and time, but preserving the memory of its former inhabitants.
Sights of Kayaköy: What You Must See
Today, Kayaköy is a huge open-air museum complex, with a paid entrance. A walk through its deserted streets leaves an unforgettable impression. Here are the main places to visit.
Houses and Streets of the Ghost Town
The main attraction of Kayakoy is itself. Over 350 two-story stone houses, scattered across the hillside, stand without roofs, with the empty eye sockets of windows and doorways. Wandering through the narrow, cobblestone streets, you can peer into the past: see fireplaces, stairs leading to nowhere, remnants of storerooms and cisterns. In places, traces of blue paint with which the Greek inhabitants covered their houses can still be seen on the walls. This place amazingly allows you to feel the breath of a bygone life.
Two Churches: Lower and Upper
The city has preserved two main Greek Orthodox churches, which are key points on any route.
The Lower Church is a large stone building with two naves, which catches the eye immediately upon entering the village. Unfortunately, due to its dilapidated condition, entry inside is usually closed, but even from the outside you can appreciate the scale of the structure and imagine the prayers once sounding here. It is the area around the Lower Church that is declared a museum, and the ticket office is located here.
The Upper Church is located higher up the slope and is considered one of the most impressive buildings in Kayaköy. This structure with preserved vaulted ceilings and walls of pale pink stone looks especially majestic against the backdrop of the surrounding ruins.
School and Fountain
On the central square of the city, where all roads lead, there is an ancient fountain dated 1888. Once upon a time, men gathered here to discuss news and drink tea. A little higher, at the very top of the hill, stands the building of the former Greek school. Today, the Turkish flag flies over it, and from its threshold opens a magnificent view of the Lower Church and the entire coast.
Chapel on the Hilltop
For those willing to undertake a short climb, the main reward will be a small chapel at the very top of the hill, reached by a path marked with red dots. This tiny domed structure resembles classic Greek island chapels. Inside it is completely empty, but the views opening from here of the Mediterranean Sea, the forested hills, and the ghost town frozen below are worth any effort.
Observation Deck
Even without climbing to the chapel, stunning panoramas open from any point in Kayakoy. The valley looks especially impressive at sunset, when the sun`s rays paint the ruins in golden-pink tones, giving the landscape an even more mystical and mesmerizing appearance.
What to Do in Kayaköy Today
Walks and Exploring the Ruins
Visiting Kayakoy is a leisurely walk for which you should set aside at least two hours. Here you can endlessly wander through the labyrinths of empty streets, go into courtyards, climb ancient stone stairs, and simply absorb the incredible atmosphere of peace and desolation. It is important to be careful: many buildings are in disrepair, it is not recommended to go inside, and it is better to choose comfortable, closed-toe shoes.
Restaurant Cin Bal 1975
After the walk, it is worth stopping by the legendary restaurant Cin Bal 1975, which is located right at the entrance to the village. This place is a real landmark of Kayaköy. Huge portions of grilled meat, a traditional atmosphere, tables under the trees, and live music create the feeling of a real village celebration. Locals and tourists agree: this is the best restaurant in the area.
Hiking Route to Soguksu Bay and St. Nicholas Island
A scenic hiking route to the coast starts from Kayakoy. In about 1-2 hours of leisurely walking, you can reach the secluded Soguksu Bay, where a beach with crystal clear water is located. This is a great way to combine a historical walk with swimming. And from there, St. Nicholas Island is within easy reach, where you can take a boat and explore the ancient Byzantine ruins.
How to Get to Kayaköy
The village of Kayakoy is located just 4.5 kilometers from the Hisaronu area and approximately 8 kilometers from the central Belcekiz Beach.
• By dolmus from Hisaronu, minibuses run regularly, the journey takes about 7 minutes. In the summer season, dolmuses also run from Oludeniz and Fethiye.
• By taxi is the fastest and most comfortable way to get there from any point in the resort.
• By rented car or scooter is a convenient option, allowing you to combine a trip to Kayaköy with a visit to nearby beaches. There is parking at the entrance to the village.
• On foot from Hisaronu you can walk in about 30-40 minutes along a scenic road.
Practical Information for Tourists
• The entrance fee is about 60-80 Turkish lira, paid in cash at the entrance.
• Opening hours: Officially, the museum territory is open during daylight hours. It is best to come in the morning before 10:00 AM or after 5:00 PM to avoid the heat and crowds of tourists, and also to catch the beautiful light.
• What to bring: comfortable shoes, a hat, sunscreen, and обязательно water, especially in summer.
• When is the best time to go: All year round, but the most comfortable weather is in spring and autumn. In summer it is very hot and there is little shade.
The abandoned village of Kayakoy is not just a tourist attraction, but a place with an amazing energy. It is a reminder of the tragic pages of history that must not be forgotten. But it is also an incredibly beautiful, atmospheric place where stone ruins, embraced by greenery, create unique, almost surreal landscapes. Combined with stunning views of the mountains, the opportunity to try excellent food in an old restaurant, and take a hike to a secluded bay, a visit to Kayaköy becomes one of the brightest and most memorable impressions of a holiday in Oludeniz.
