Suzhou, famous for its gardens, silk, and bridges, is often called the "Venice of the East." However, this comparison is not entirely accurate. Suzhou is a distinctive, unique water city whose history is inextricably linked to its canals. They were not just decoration, but a circulatory system that determined its prosperity for over 2500 years.
The Birth of the Water System
The history of Suzhou`s canals begins in 514 BC, when an advisor of the Wu Kingdom named Wu Zixu, on the orders of King Helü, laid the foundations of the city. According to historical records, it was Wu Zixu who designed the system of waterways, which performed three critical functions:
• Transportation: Connection with the Grand Canal and other cities.
• Irrigation: Irrigation of the fertile fields around the city.
• Defensive: The canals served as moats protecting the city walls.
However, the true flourishing of Suzhou`s canal network occurred during the Sui (581-618 AD) and Tang (618-907 AD) dynasties, when the Grand Canal was completed—a grandiose project that connected the north and south of China. Suzhou, located on one of the key branches of the Canal, became a major economic, trade, and cultural center. The canals within the city became streets along which boats with goods moved: silk, grain, tea, and handicrafts.
What has survived to this day?
The 20th century with its rapid urbanization did not spare Suzhou`s water system. A significant part of the canals was filled in during the 1950s-80s to expand roads and construct buildings and infrastructure. According to historians` estimates, by the end of the 1980s, up to 40% of the city`s historic waterways had been destroyed.
However, an awareness of their value came in time. Since the late 1990s, the Suzhou authorities began a large-scale program to restore and clean the remaining canals. Today, in the GuSu district, which is the old city center, we can see a carefully preserved and restored network. It is not a museum exhibit but a living space: people live along the canals, traditional shops operate, and boats still glide on the water—now mostly tourist ones.
Pingjiang Canal — The Main Historical Axis
The Pingjiang Canal is not just a canal; it is the epicenter of old Suzhou`s atmosphere. It gave its name to the entire historical street of the same name (Pingjiang Road), which runs parallel to it. This canal was the main transport artery of this area in ancient times.
What makes it unique:
Ideal preservation: Walking along the cobblestone street of Pingjiang, you see the same picture as a merchant from the Song Dynasty: white walls and gray-tiled roofs of traditional houses descending to the water`s edge, ancient bridges spanning the canal.
"Open-air museum": Along the entire length of the canal, stone steles with ancient maps are installed, showing what this area looked like hundreds of years ago.
It is from the Pingjiang Canal that the most interesting and authentic small canals branch off, forming a dense network.
Gems around Pingjiang: Small Canals Holding Secrets
The greatest pleasure is to turn off the main tourist street and delve into the labyrinth of alleys (nongtangs), where life flows leisurely and has practically remained unchanged.
• Nanshejia Canal and surroundings: To the east of Pingjiang lies a whole web of tiny canals. They are so narrow that it seems you could step across to the other side. There are no crowds of tourists here. Houses stand right next to the water, with old stone steps leading down to it, where residents used to rinse laundry.
• Area around Zhongjiao Bridge: To the north of the main part of Pingjiang, the canal branches out. The bridges here are not just crossings but architectural landmarks and gathering places for locals. Each bridge has its own history and name.
Many of these small canals connect Pingjiang with other larger ones, such as the Xiangmen Canal. They served and still serve for local transportation, delivering goods to small family shops and teahouses. The large canal to which this system adjoins is, in essence, the Pingjiang Canal itself, which is part of a larger historical water structure connected to the Grand Canal.
The canals of Suzhou`s GuSu district are more than just an attraction. They tell the story of a trade route, a center of artisans, a secluded place for poets and artists. A boat ride along the large Pingjiang Canal gives a general impression, but it is essential to also walk along the small canals that adjoin it.
