On the northwestern shore of West Lake, shaded by majestic trees, rises the limestone peak of Feilai Feng (Fēiláifēng) — one of Hangzhou’s most mysterious and spiritually significant landmarks. Its name, meaning “The Peak That Flew From Afar,” is shrouded in legends, and its slopes hold priceless treasures of Chinese Buddhist art.
Legends Behind the Name
The most famous legend tells that the mountain was magically transported here from India. The Indian monk Huili (Huìlǐ), founder of the nearby Lingyin Temple, upon seeing it, exclaimed: “This is the mountain from the kingdom of Magadha! How could it have flown here?”. From that moment, the peak received its name. Another version says the mountain was carried through the air by a powerful Buddhist monk to protect local residents from evil spirits.
A Treasury of Buddhist Sculptures
The main wealth of Feilai Feng is not its height (only about 168 meters), but the more than 340 exquisite stone sculptures carved into the limestone caves and outer cliffs between the 10th and 14th centuries. This is one of the most significant collections of Chinese Buddhist art, particularly from the Southern Song and Yuan dynasties.
Among the many depictions of bodhisattvas, arhats, and deities, the following stand out:
• Qinglin Cave: One of the main caves, housing an early sculpture of Maitreya (the Future Buddha) and reliefs depicting Buddhist parables.
• Reliefs of Avalokiteshvara (Guanyin): Multi-armed images of the bodhisattva of compassion, demonstrating the highest level of craftsmanship.
The Famous “Laughing Buddha” — Maitreya
The “cheerful fat man,” whose photo has become the landmark’s signature image, is Maitreya (Mílèfó), the Future Buddha. This particular sculpture, carved during the Song Dynasty (10th century), depicts him as a laughing monk with a large belly and a carefree smile. This image is based on a Chinese folk legend about the monk Qici (Qìcǐ), who lived in the 10th century and was considered an earthly incarnation of Maitreya. He wandered with a sack (literally “the cloth sack monk” — Bùdài Héshàng) and brought people joy and prosperity. His sculpture symbolizes happiness, wellbeing, and lightheartedness, making it one of the most beloved and frequently photographed.
Three Great Monasteries at the Foot of the Peak
Feilai Feng is at the epicenter of spiritual life, surrounded by three famous monasteries that form a single sacred complex:
• Lingyin Temple (Lingyin Si): “Monastery of the Soul’s Retreat,” founded by the monk Huili himself. It is one of China’s wealthiest, most influential, and most visited Buddhist monasteries, known for its grand scale, majestic halls, and powerful spiritual atmosphere.
• Yongfu Temple (Yongfu Si): “Monastery of Eternal Blessing,” situated higher up the slope. It is renowned for its scenic views of tea plantations, cascading courtyards, and serene ambiance, making it more suited for quiet contemplation than Lingyin Temple.
• Taoguang Temple (Taoguang Si): The highest located monastery, accessible by climbing a staircase. It is unique for its syncretism — housing Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian altars. From its grounds, visitors enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view of West Lake.
At the foot of the mountain, beside a crystal-clear stream flowing down the slopes, stands the elegant Cuiwei Ting (“Pavilion of Emerald Peaks”). It was built in the 12th century in memory of the national hero, General Yue Fei.
A small but very clean river, Baijun Xi (Báijūn Xī), flows at the very base of the mountain, crossed by stone bridges. The mirror-like surface of the water reflects the ancient rocks and green treetops, adding harmony and completeness to this remarkable place.
