While many Loire Valley castles are famous for their elegant Renaissance architecture, the fortress of Loches is something different—a austere, majestic, and authentic monument of the Middle Ages. Perched on a rocky cliff over the Indre River, it did not merely adorn the landscape but was a formidable strategic object, a prison, and a royal residence, whose walls witnessed key moments in French history.
History of Construction: From a Wooden Tower to a Royal Citadel
The history of Loches begins in the Carolingian era, but the fortress truly flourished during the period of confrontation between the Plantagenets and the Capetians—the famous dynastic war known as the `Hundred Years` War` in its initial phase.
Foundation and First Fortifications (10th century): The first mention of fortifications on this site dates back to 491 AD, but its stone history begins with Fulk Nerra, Count of Anjou, nicknamed the "Black Falcon". This restless and warlike feudal lord built a massive square keep here in the early 11th century. For its time, it was a colossal structure about 36 meters high. The keep of Fulk Nerra is one of the oldest and best-preserved in Europe. It was not just a shelter, but a symbol of power and a bridgehead for attacks on the lands of neighbors.
The Era of the Plantagenets and Capetians (12th-13th centuries): The grandson of Fulk Nerra, Geoffrey Plantagenet, adorned the keep with elegant Romanesque windows and carved capitals, transforming it from a purely military structure into a semblance of a residence. However, his son, King Henry II of England, continued to strengthen Loches. It was under him that the fortress passed into the hands of the English crown. But not for long. In 1205, after a year-long siege, King Philip II Augustus of France recaptured Loches.
The Golden Age under Charles VII and Agnes Sorel (15th century): The most romantic and significant period in the history of Loches is associated with King Charles VII and his favorite, Agnes Sorel. The king gave her the fortress, and Agnes, nicknamed the "Lady of Beauty", became the first officially recognized royal mistress of a French monarch. She not only lived here but also exerted significant political influence, urging the king to be more decisive in the fight against the English. Thanks to her, Loches temporarily became one of the centers of secular life and art. Later, under Louis XI and Charles VIII, the Royal Lodge was built—a comfortable palace in the Flamboyant Gothic and early Renaissance style, which replaced the austere keep.
Owners and Famous Prisoners
The owners of the fortress were the powerful of the world:
• Fulk Nerra: Founder, whose keep became the core of the citadel.
• Henry II Plantagenet and Richard the Lionheart: English kings who owned Loches before its return to France.
• Charles VII: It was here, in Loches, that he received Joan of Arc, who, after the liberation of Orleans, persuaded him to be crowned in Reims.
• Agnes Sorel: "The Lady of Loches", whose tomb with a white marble statue is located in the local church.
• Louis XI: Turned the fortress into a state prison. He also built the famous Martello Tower—a round tower with incredibly thick walls.
Loches is sadly famous for its prison, which functioned until the 20th century. Within these walls languished:
• Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy: After the Battle of Nancy, his son was held here for several years.
• Cardinal Balue: The famous prisoner of Louis XI, who spent 11 years in an iron cage (a real one).
• Prisoners of the French Revolution and the Second World War: The prison continued to be used for political prisoners.
What can be seen in Loches today:
The fortress of Loches is a unique complex where monuments from different centuries can be seen on one site. Tourists visiting it can see:
The Royal Keep (Donjon): The main dominant feature. You can climb to its top via narrow staircases to enjoy a stunning view of the town and the Indre valley. Inside—bare stone walls, halls with exhibitions about life in the Middle Ages, and reconstructions of siege engines.
The Royal Lodge (Logis Royal): A later residence. The rooms of Agnes Sorel and Charles VIII have been preserved here. Unlike the keep, the spirit of the Renaissance is felt here—higher ceilings, more light, elegant fireplaces.
The Martello Tower (Tour Ronde): Built by Louis XI, it demonstrates the evolution of fortification. From its upper floor, another magnificent view opens up, and inside you can see a collection of ancient locks and mechanisms.
Prison Casemates: Gloomy dungeons and cells where prisoners were held. Graffiti scratched by prisoners over the centuries still remains on the walls.
Monument to Agnes Sorel: Her elegant white marble tomb is located in the former Collegiate Church of St. Ours, situated right on the territory of the citadel. It is one of the rarest medieval sculptures depicting a king`s favorite.
What to see near the fortress of Loches:
The walk through Loches is worth continuing outside the citadel walls:
• The Old Town of Loches: A charming quarter at the foot of the fortress with half-timbered houses from the 15th-16th centuries, narrow cobbled streets, and atmospheric cafes.
• Candes-Saint-Martin: One of the most beautiful villages in France, located 20 minutes away by car. It stands at the confluence of the Loire and Vienne rivers and is famous for its collegiate church and incredible landscapes.
• Montrésor: Another "most beautiful village in France" half an hour from Loches. Here lies a beautifully preserved Renaissance castle with a rich collection of artworks, belonging to a Polish aristocratic family.
• Château de Valençay: Just 40 km away stands a majestic castle often called the "little Chambord". Napoleon Bonaparte gifted it to his Minister of Foreign Affairs, Talleyrand.
