On the right bank of the River Lys, opposite the more intimate Korenlei Embankment, lies Graslei (Graslei) – the most famous and most photographed place in Ghent. It is here, on the stretch between Grasbrug (Grass Bridge) and Saint Michael`s Bridge, that the houses which have become a symbol of the city and the hallmark of Flemish medieval architecture are concentrated. Their stepped gables, ornate facades, and reflections in the calm waters of the river create the very image that travelers take home with them in thousands of photographs.
The name of the embankment comes from the Dutch word gras – "grass." In the Middle Ages, not only grain but also hay, straw, and other goods were traded here, stored right on the riverbank. Unlike the opposite side, Graslei was more "ceremonial": here stood the wealthiest guild houses, and the embankment itself served as a place where the largest trade deals were concluded and the power of Ghent`s merchant class was displayed.
Historical Context: From Trading Quay to Architectural Gem
Medieval Port and the Grain Privilege
In the 13th–16th centuries, Graslei was the heart of commercial Ghent. The city possessed the exclusive right to collect a tax on grain transported along the River Lys. All merchants whose ships passed through Ghent were obliged to unload a quarter of their cargo for sale on the local market and also to pay a toll. This right, granted by the Counts of Flanders, turned Ghent into one of the wealthiest cities in medieval Europe.
It was on Graslei that grain was dried, weighed, stored, and traded. According to historical documents, there were over a hundred warehouse buildings (stapelhuizen) here, intended for storing grain and other goods. The embankment was a genuine port: ships moored directly to the stepped facades, and on the ground floor of each house were warehouses, offices, and trading shops.
Decline and Revival
In 1734, Ghent lost its grain trade privilege. New trade routes, as well as changes in the structure of European trade, led to the port`s decline. The embankments fell into disrepair; many buildings were rebuilt without regard for their historical appearance, disfigured by later additions, or hidden under layers of plaster.
The true revival of Graslei began at the turn of the 19th–20th centuries. In the lead-up to the 1913 World`s Fair, large-scale work to restore the city`s historical appearance began in Ghent. Enthusiasts from the association Vrienden van Oud-Gent ("Friends of Old Ghent") carried out extensive research: based on surviving drawings, engravings, and architectural traces, facades were returned to their medieval and Renaissance appearance. In some cases, buildings were literally "rebuilt" following ancient plans.
Although the current appearance of Graslei is largely the result of the early 20th-century restoration, it has preserved the spirit and architectural forms characteristic of Ghent`s golden age. In 1998, the embankment was recognized as a Flemish architectural monument, and its ensemble is among the most valuable historical landscapes in Belgium.
Architectural Overview of the Houses on Graslei
Graslei represents a unique architectural ensemble in which, over a short stretch, buildings illustrating the development of Flemish civic architecture from the 12th to the 18th century are concentrated. Let us consider the most notable houses – from the oldest to the most ornate.
House No. 10 – Spijker (Grain Warehouse)
This building is an architectural gem not only of Graslei but of all Ghent. Spijker is one of the oldest surviving warehouses in the city. It was built in the 12th century and represents an extremely rare example of Romanesque civic architecture. Unlike its neighboring houses, it is constructed of rough gray stone, giving it a stern, almost fortress-like appearance. Originally, the building served as a barley store (hooiaard). At the end of the 19th century, the warehouse was severely damaged by fire, with only the front wall surviving. During the preparations for the 1913 World`s Fair, architects restored the building, preserving its Romanesque character. Today, a restaurant is located within it, but the facade remains one of the most recognizable in Ghent.
House No. 11 – Den Coene
House number 11, known as Den Coene, dates from the 15th century. It is a typical example of a late Gothic residential house with a characteristic stepped gable. The building`s name ("The Bold" or "The Courageous") recalls the tradition of giving houses names, which was widespread in medieval Ghent. The facade is adorned with stone carvings and niches where statues of saints or allegorical figures once stood.
House No. 12 – De Beerie
The neighboring house, number 12, De Beerie, also dates from the 15th century. Its name likely derives from the word beer (bear) or is associated with its owner. Note the rich decoration of the facade: here, elements of late Gothic have been preserved, including elegant stone rosettes and carved corbels. In the 16th–17th centuries, the house was raised and received its current stepped gable.
House No. 13 – De Lelie
De Lelie ("The Lily") – a house built in the 17th century in the Flemish Renaissance style. Its name is associated with the symbol adorning the facade. This building is distinguished by its more restrained yet elegant architecture: characteristic Renaissance rustication, elegant window surrounds, and harmonious proportions. The facade was restored during the early 20th-century restoration but preserved the spirit of its time.
House No. 14 – Gildehuis der Vrije Schippers (Guild House of the "Free" Shipowners)
This is perhaps the most richly decorated facade in the entire Graslei ensemble. The house was built in 1531 in the late Gothic style with Renaissance elements. It belonged to the guild of "free" shipowners (Vrije Schippers) – a privileged corporation whose members had the right to vote in the city council (unlike the "unfree" shipowners, whose house is located on the opposite Korenlei Embankment).
The facade is adorned with statues, a stepped gable, and rich decoration emphasizing the status and wealth of the guild. In the niches, figures of saints and allegorical depictions have been preserved. The central place is occupied by the guild`s coat of arms, as well as sculptural portraits that, according to some assumptions, depict members of the guild. The entrance to the building is designed as a portal with columns and carved details.
House No. 15 – Den Witten Arend
Den Witten Arend ("The White Eagle") – a house built in the 17th century. Its name is associated with the eagle that crowns the gable. This building combines elements of Renaissance and early Baroque. Note the rich stucco work and sculptural details that make it one of the most ornate on the embankment.
House No. 16 – De Zwaene
De Zwaene ("The Swan") – a house with an elegant facade adorned with an image of a swan. This building dates from the 16th century and was restored during the 1913 restoration. The swan, like other symbols on the facades of Graslei, recalls the tradition of naming houses after animals, plants, or allegorical figures.
House No. 17 – De Balie
Completing the enfilade is the house De Balie ("The Counter" or "The Office"), built in the 17th century. Its name is associated with the fact that an office or trading place was once located here. The facade is distinguished by its strict lines and restrained decoration, characteristic of the late Renaissance.
Graslei Today
Atmosphere and Best Vantage Points
Today, Graslei is a pedestrian zone, one of the liveliest and most beloved spots for both tourists and locals. Along the embankment are cafes and restaurants where you can enjoy traditional Belgian beer while admiring the reflections of the ancient facades in the water.
The best time to visit is morning, when the sun illuminates the facades and the water is particularly calm, or evening, when the lighting comes on and the buildings appear in a completely different, mysterious light. For photography, the ideal vantage point is Saint Michael`s Bridge, from which a panorama opens up, combining both banks and the three famous towers of Ghent. From the Graslei embankment, there is also a magnificent view of the opposite side – Korenlei, where the houses are reflected in the water, creating the illusion of a second, underwater city.
Cultural Life
Graslei remains a cultural center of Ghent. In summer, street musicians can often be heard here, and the embankment becomes one of the main venues during the Ghent Festivities (Gentse Feesten) – the largest urban festival in Europe, which annually attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors.
Tourist boats also depart from here onto the River Lys, offering a unique opportunity to view the houses from the water, just as merchants did centuries ago. Many excursions include a detailed account of the history of each building and how trade developed in medieval Ghent.
Interesting Facts
• The oldest house. The Spijker building (House No. 10) was built in the 12th century, making it one of the oldest secular structures in Ghent and an extremely rare example of Romanesque civic architecture in Flanders.
• The Guild of "Free" Shipowners. House No. 14, the most richly decorated on the embankment, belonged to the privileged guild whose members had the right to vote in the city council. Their opponents – the "unfree" shipowners – established themselves on the opposite bank (Korenlei).
• The 1913 World`s Fair. The current appearance of the embankment is the result of a large-scale restoration carried out in the lead-up to the World`s Fair. Some buildings were literally "rebuilt" based on ancient plans and engravings.
• History of the name. Until the 18th century, both embankments together were called Koornlei (Grain Embankment) or Tussenbruggen (Between the Bridges). The division into Graslei (Grass) and Korenlei (Grain) occurred later, by association with the main goods stored there: hay and straw (gras) were stored on Graslei, while grain (koren) was stored on Korenlei.
• UNESCO. The ensemble of the Graslei and Korenlei embankments is part of the protected historical landscape and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the "Belfries of Belgium and France" site (the site also includes the Belfry and adjacent buildings).
The Graslei Embankment is a unique architectural ensemble in which, over a stretch of just 120 meters, monuments of civic architecture spanning six centuries – from the 12th to the 18th century – are concentrated. Here one can trace the evolution of Flemish architecture: from the stern Romanesque Spijker warehouse (House No. 10, 12th century), through the late Gothic Den Coene (House No. 11, 15th century), to the richly decorated Renaissance facade of the guild house of the "free" shipowners (House No. 14, 1531).
Graslei is not merely a postcard view but a living testament to the economic history of Flanders. It was here that grain ships moored in the Middle Ages, that measurers and customs officials worked, and that the largest trade deals were concluded. The current appearance of the embankment, restored for the 1913 World`s Fair, is recognized as a Flemish architectural monument and is included among the UNESCO World Heritage sites (as part of the "Belfries of Belgium and France" ensemble).
