Hangzhou is not just a city in China. It is the embodiment of Chinese poetry, painting, and philosophy. For over a thousand years, its name has been synonymous with refined beauty, tranquility, and cultural grandeur. Marco Polo, who visited in the 13th century, called Hangzhou "the most beautiful and magnificent city in the world." And the heart of this magnificence is West Lake (Xihu).
West Lake: The Soul of Hangzhou
The allure of West Lake (Xihu) lies not in its grand size or crystal-clear water. Its magic is in its refined, intimate beauty, which changes depending on the time of day, season, and weather. The lake is framed by hills, and its surface is divided by causeways and islands, creating a landscape as if from a traditional Chinese scroll painting.
The Chinese celebrate the "Ten Scenes of West Lake" — ten ideal vistas, such as "Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake," "Snow on the Broken Bridge," or "Lotus in the Breeze at the Winery Courtyard." Each is a meticulously composed scene, created by nature and refined by human hands.
West Lake is a cultural landscape, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Its value lies in being an outstanding example of the philosophy of a "designed natural landscape," where every pagoda, bridge, or pavilion is placed exactly where it should be according to the principles of aesthetics and feng shui.
A Walk Around West Lake
The best way to experience Xihu is to walk or cycle around it. Let`s start our journey on the southern shore.
1. Leifeng Pagoda and Jingci Temple
Your starting point is the legendary Leifeng Pagoda. Originally built in 977 AD, it collapsed in 1924, and a modern pagoda with an elevator inside was erected on its site in 2002. Ascend to the top—it`s the best viewing platform for a panoramic view of the lake, islands, and city. The ruins of the original foundation lie at the pagoda`s foot.
Nearby is one of the two great Buddhist monasteries of the lake—Jingci Temple. It is famous for its huge bronze bell, the sound of which at dusk is considered one of the "Ten Scenes of Xihu."
2. On Foot Along the Western Shore (Santan Yinyue)
Head north along the western shore. This section is less crowded and more picturesque. Here you will walk through the Botanical Garden, admire the pond with goldfish, and reach the "Three Pools Mirroring the Moon" (Santan Yinyue). This is a group of three stone pagodas in the water, which on the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival are illuminated from within, and their reflections in the water create the illusion of three moons. This is another one of the "Ten Scenes."
3. Islands on the Lake: Xiaoyingzhou and Solitary Hill (Gushan)
From the piers at "Lotus in the Breeze at the Quyuan Garden" (Quyuan Fenghe) on the western shore, you can take a boat to two main islands.
Xiaoyingzhou Island: This "Island of the Little Ocean" is an artificial island within the lake, which itself is divided into four parts by water. Here you will find the famous "Pavilion of the Autumn Moon over the Calm Lake"—a place for contemplation and photography.
Gushan Island ("Solitary Hill"): This is the largest natural island on the lake, connected to the shore by the Bai Causeway. This place is a concentration of culture. It is home to:
• Huanlong Palace: A palace built in honor of Qian Liu, king of the ancient Wuyue Kingdom.
• Zhejiang Provincial Museum: One of China`s best history museums with a stunning collection of artifacts from the Neolithic age to the Qing dynasty.
• Xiling Seal Society: A recognized center for the art of calligraphy and seal carving. It is a quiet, atmospheric place with pavilions and gardens.
Feilaifeng Peak and Lingyin Temple
To the west of West Lake begin the hills, and here lies one of China`s most important Buddhist shrines—the Temple of the Soul`s Retreat (Lingyin Temple). This is an active Chan (Zen) Buddhist monastery, founded in 328 AD. Its name translates to "Temple of the Secluded Soul."
Feilaifeng Peak ("The Peak that Flew Here"): Legend says this hill "flew" here from India. It is an open-air museum. Over 470 stone carvings of Buddhas and bodhisattvas are carved into its cliffs, dating from the Five Dynasties (907-960) and Song Dynasty (960-1279) periods. A walk among these ancient, moss-covered sculptures, hidden in niches and grottoes, is an unforgettable experience.
Halls of Lingyin Temple: The temple complex itself is vast. You will pass through the Hall of the Heavenly Kings, the majestic Great Hall of the Great Sage (Daxiong Baodian) with its 24-meter-high statue of Sakyamuni Buddha carved from camphor wood, and the Hall of the Medicine Buddha. An atmosphere of reverence and the scent of incense fill this place.
Other Attractions in Hangzhou
Yue Fei Temple: The mausoleum of a Chinese national hero, General Yue Fei, who was unjustly executed in the 12th century. It is a site of patriotic pilgrimage and a fine example of Song Dynasty architecture.
Longjing Tea Plantations: To the west of the lake stretch the terraces of the famous Dragon Well (Longjing) tea plantations. Here you can observe the process of tea picking and processing, as well as taste and buy one of the best green teas in the world.
Hefang Street: A recreated street from the Southern Song Dynasty era, it`s the perfect place to buy souvenirs—from silk and fans to traditional sweets and tea.
Museums of Hangzhou
China National Silk Museum: Located near West Lake, it is the world`s largest museum dedicated to the history of silk. It details the Silk Road, production technologies, and displays stunning historical fabric samples.
Zhejiang Provincial Museum: As mentioned above, a must-visit on Gushan Island.
China Tea Museum: Located among the tea plantations, it is dedicated to the history, culture, and ceremony of tea drinking in China.
Modern Hangzhou: From Ancient Capital to China`s IT Capital
Today, it is a dynamic, wealthy, and high-tech metropolis. It is home to the headquarters of Alibaba Group—one of the world`s largest retailers and IT giants. This fact has turned Hangzhou into a magnet for startups, programmers, and investors, earning it the unofficial title of "China`s Silicon Valley."
Modern districts of the city, such as Qianjiang New City with its skyscrapers and impressive cultural center designed by Zaha Hadid, contrast with the idyll of Xihu. International conferences like the G20 summit are held here, for which the famous light and music fountain on Qiandao Lake (Thousand Island Lake) near the city was built.
The architecture of Hangzhou is a layering of eras: from pagodas of the Wuyue and Song eras, through traditional white walls and gray-tiled roofs of houses by the water, to elegant colonial buildings of the early 20th century and gleaming skyscrapers of glass and steel from the 21st century. At the same time, the city strictly controls the height of new constructions around West Lake to preserve its most valuable view.
