Sultanahmet Square (Sultanahmet Meydanı) is not just the geographical center of old Istanbul, but a place where the history of two great empires — Byzantine and Ottoman — unfolded over two millennia. Today, this elongated square, located near the city`s two greatest temples — Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque — represents a unique architectural ensemble uniting monuments from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras.
Here once stood the ancient Hippodrome of Constantinople, where the public life of the Byzantine capital thrived for over a thousand years. The distance from the German Fountain at the northern end to the southern Obelisk of Constantine is about 400 meters — along this space, on the central axis of the ancient hippodrome, three famous monuments stand in a row: the Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius, the enigmatic Serpent Column, and the Masonry Obelisk of Constantine. For centuries, grand chariot races took place here; around this axis, political intrigues flared and bloody revolts unfolded that shook the empire.
Sultanahmet Square from Septimius Severus to the Present Day
The history of this place began long before the founding of Constantinople. In 203 AD, the Roman Emperor Septimius Severus, while rebuilding the city of Byzantium, laid the foundations for the first hippodrome here. However, the structure achieved its true grandeur under Emperor Constantine the Great, who, between 330 and 334 AD while creating the new capital of the Roman Empire, completely rebuilt the Hippodrome. After reconstruction, its dimensions were approximately 450 meters in length and 120 meters in width, with a capacity reaching 100,000 spectators — a truly grandiose structure worthy of the greatest city in the world.
The entrance to the hippodrome was on the northern side — roughly where the German Fountain stands today. On the eastern side, it adjoined the Great Imperial Palace, connected by a special passage that allowed the emperor to reach his box, the kathisma, without mingling with the crowd.
The famous Quadriga of Lysippus was on the tower, which dominated the start room. The magnificent sculpture group of 4 horses was created by a famous Greek sculptor Lysippus (4 century B.C). It was taken from Constantinople during the fourth crusade. Now the quadriga is stored at the Cathedral of St. Marc in Venice.
Chariot Races and the Nika Revolt
Thrilling chariot races were held at the hippodrome, rivaling modern derbies in intensity. Spectators were divided into factions based on the colors of their favored charioteers: the Reds, Whites, Blues (Veneti), and Greens (Prasinoi). Over time, the two most influential factions became the Blues (Veneti) and the Greens (Prasinoi).
Behind this sporting rivalry lay not just fan preferences, but deep social, political, and sometimes religious conflicts. Emperors usually favored one of the factions. For example, Anastasius I supported the Greens, while Justinian the Great favored the Blues.
The most dramatic event in the hippodrome`s history was the Nika Revolt of 532 AD. The united Blues and Greens, dissatisfied with Emperor Justinian`s policies, rose in rebellion that nearly cost him his throne. The rebels proclaimed a new emperor, and Constantinople burned. It was then that the original Hagia Sophia cathedral was destroyed, on whose site Justinian later erected the majestic temple we see today.
The decisive battle took place at the hippodrome. Generals Belisarius and Mundus, loyal to the emperor, blocked the exits and carried out a bloody massacre. According to historians, about 35,000 people perished in the arena and during the suppression of the revolt that day. After this event, the hippodrome continued to serve as a place for public assemblies and ceremonies for a long time, but it never regained its former glory.
Three Monuments of Great History on Sultanahmet Square
After the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, the hippodrome lost its significance but was never completely destroyed. The Turks used it for festivities, ceremonies, and military reviews, and the Janissaries held their demonstrations and protests here. Gradually, the structure was dismantled for materials to build new buildings — Topkapi Palace, the Sultanahmet Mosque, and others.
However, three unique monuments that once adorned the spina — the central axis around which the thrilling competitions unfolded — have survived to this day.
The Egyptian Obelisk (Obelisk of Theodosius)
The oldest monument on Sultanahmet Square is the Egyptian Obelisk, also known as the Obelisk of Theodosius. Its age is truly impressive: it was created in the 16th century BC, about 3,500 years ago, during the reign of Pharaoh Thutmose III.
The obelisk, made of white-pink Aswan granite, weighs about 300 tons. Originally, its height was 32.5 meters, but it was shortened during transportation to Constantinople. Today, including its marble base, its height reaches 18.8 meters.
Emperor Theodosius I ordered the obelisk to be brought from Egyptian Luxor in 390 AD and erected it in the hippodrome.
Hieroglyphs glorifying the deeds of Thutmose III are preserved on four sides of the obelisk, with depictions of the pharaoh and the god Amun at the top. Of particular interest is the marble base, carved with scenes from the life of the imperial court: Theodosius I with his family in the imperial box, the reception of barbarians, a dance, and the scene of erecting the obelisk itself. On the western side, an inscription can be seen stating that the installation of the monument in the hippodrome took 32 days.
The Serpent Column
The Serpent Column is the most mysterious monument on Sultanahmet Square. It was brought from the sanctuary of Apollo at Delphi in Greece in 326 AD by order of Emperor Constantine the Great. Its history goes back even further than that of the obelisk: the column was created to commemorate the victory of the Greek city-states over the Persians at Plataea in 479 BC.
Originally, it was a monument 6.5 meters high, depicting three intertwined serpents. They were cast from the bronze shields taken from the defeated Persians and were crowned with a golden tripod — a three-legged cauldron. The serpents themselves symbolized the Greek city-states united against the enemy.
The golden bowl was lost in antiquity, and the serpent heads were broken off in 1700. One of the heads has survived and is now exhibited in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum. During the Byzantine era, the column was used as a fountain — 29 openwork grooves for water supply remain on the bronze base. Today, the column stands 5 meters high, a silent witness to the grandeur and tragedies of bygone eras.
The Obelisk of Constantine (Masonry Obelisk)
The third monument on Sultanahmet Square is the Obelisk of Constantine, also known as the Colossus or the Walled Obelisk. Unlike its neighbors, it was not brought from afar but was built from local stone by order of Emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogennetos in the 10th century in memory of his grandfather, Emperor Basil I.
The column`s original height reached 32 meters. It was covered with gilded bronze sheets that gleamed in the sun, making the monument a majestic adornment of the hippodrome. However, during the sack of Constantinople by the Crusaders in 1204, the precious cladding was stripped and melted down. Today, we see only the stone core, 21 meters high, which nevertheless impresses with its solidity.
In Ottoman times, there was a tradition: young Janissaries would compete in agility by climbing to the top of the obelisk. Unfortunately, these exercises damaged the surface of the monument, and today it bears the marks of this unusual practice.
The German Fountain on Sultanahmet Square: A Gift from the Kaiser
Completing the ensemble of Sultanahmet Square is the German Fountain, standing at the northern entrance where the racetrack of the ancient hippodrome once began. It is the only monument on the square not connected to Byzantine history.
The fountain was a gift from the German Emperor Kaiser Wilhelm II, who visited Istanbul in 1898. The fountain was manufactured in Germany, then transported in pieces to the capital of the Ottoman Empire and erected on Sultanahmet Square in 1900.
The structure is built in the Neo-Byzantine style and is an octagonal pavilion with columns supporting a dome. Inside, the fountain is decorated with golden mosaics, and on the inner side of the dome, one can see the monogram of Sultan Abdulhamid II and the initials of Kaiser Wilhelm II — a symbol of friendship between two empires at the twilight of their existence.
Today, Sultanahmet Square is a favorite place for Istanbulites and tourists to stroll. Here, sipping tea in cozy cafes, one can see artifacts from the heyday of Ancient Egypt, classical Greece, the Byzantine Empire, and the decline of the Ottoman Empire. For the modern traveler, Sultanahmet Square is an ideal place to start getting acquainted with Istanbul. It is within easy reach of the main museums and temples, and all tourist routes intersect here.
