On the left bank of the River Lys, opposite the better-known Graslei Embankment, lies the Korenlei Embankment (Korenlei) – a place where the history of Flemish commercial power is presented in its most picturesque form. Together with the Graslei, the Korenlei forms that classic postcard view which has become the hallmark of Ghent: medieval houses with gables, reflected in the calm waters of the river, creating an atmosphere that transports visitors back several centuries.
The name of the embankment comes from the Dutch word koren – "grain." In the Middle Ages, the main grain market of Ghent was located here, and the embankment itself was part of a bustling port known as Tusschen Bruggen ("Between the Bridges") – the commercial heart of the city, stretching between Grasbrug (Grass Bridge) and Saint Michael`s Bridge.
Unlike its neighbor the Graslei, the Korenlei offers a more intimate atmosphere. It is from here, from the left bank, that the most impressive view of the famous guild houses on the opposite side opens up – houses considered among the most beautiful historic facades in Belgium.
Historical Context: From Port to Tourist Gem
Medieval Port
In the 13th–16th centuries, the banks of the River Lys in this area represented a bustling trading harbor. Ghent, being one of the largest cities in medieval Europe, possessed the exclusive right to collect a tax on grain passing through the city. All merchants whose ships traveled along the river were obliged to leave a quarter of their cargo as a toll. This right, granted by the Counts of Flanders, became the source of the city`s incredible wealth.
Grain was dried, stored, and traded directly on the embankments. According to historical documents, there were over a hundred warehouse buildings in the Graslei area alone, intended for storing grain. The Korenlei, located on the opposite bank, served not only for unloading goods but was also a place where the wealthiest merchants and shipowners settled and conducted their business.
Decline and Revival
In 1734, Ghent lost its trade privilege on grain. New trade routes, as well as the appearance of the potato, which gradually replaced grain crops in the European diet, led to the port`s decline. The Korenlei and Graslei embankments fell into disrepair; many buildings were abandoned, rebuilt without regard to their historical appearance, or completely hidden under layers of plaster.
The true revival of the Korenlei began at the turn of the 19th–20th centuries. In the lead-up to the 1913 World`s Fair, large-scale work to restore the city`s historical appearance began in Ghent. Enthusiasts from the association Vrienden van Oud-Gent ("Friends of Old Ghent") carried out extensive research: based on surviving drawings from the first half of the 19th century, old engravings, and traces found beneath later plaster, facades were returned to their medieval and Renaissance appearance.
In some cases, it went as far as the "reconstruction" of lost elements. Although this means that the current appearance of the Korenlei Embankment is largely the result of the painstaking work of restorers in the early 20th century, it has preserved the spirit and architectural forms characteristic of Ghent`s golden age.
Architectural Overview of the Houses on Korenlei
The Korenlei is an enfilade of houses, most of which date from the 16th–18th centuries, although their appearance was significantly renewed during the restoration of 1900–1913. The facades are executed in various styles: from late Gothic to Flemish Renaissance and Baroque. Let us consider the most notable buildings.
House No. 7 – Guild House of the "Unfree" Shipowners
This house is one of the architectural highlights of the Korenlei. Its pink-and-white facade is executed in the Flemish Baroque style and dates from 1739. The name of the guild "Onvrije Schippers" ("unfree shipowners") derives from the fact that members of this guild did not have the right to vote in the city council, unlike the more privileged guild of "free" shipowners, whose house is located on the opposite side – on the Graslei.
House No. 9 – "The Swan"
This is one of the most intriguing houses on the embankment. Its facade is adorned with gilded swans – the symbol that gave the building its name. In its time, "De Swaene" was used not only as a residence but also as a brewery and, according to some accounts, as an establishment of a different kind. Today, it serves as a reminder of the colorful and by no means always respectable life of the medieval port.
House No. 10 – Building Adjoining the Bridge
House number 10, located right next to Saint Michael`s Bridge, is an elegant building with a stepped gable characteristic of the Flemish Renaissance. Its appearance was shaped during the restoration of the early 20th century, when the embankment was being returned to its historical appearance. Note the decorative elements of the facade, typical of 17th-century commercial houses.
House No. 11 – The Customs House
The small, elegant building at number 11 is the former customs house, built in 1682. Here, duties were collected on goods passing through the port. Its modest size contrasts with the monumentality of the neighboring guild houses, but it is precisely this building that reminds us of the embankment`s commercial function.
House No. 12 – The Second Grain Measures` House
This building served as the "office" for people whose profession was critically important to the medieval economy – the grain measurers. They assessed the volume and quality of grain arriving at the port, determining the amount of tax to be paid. There were two such houses: the first was lost, but the second survived and, after restoration, became one of the adornments of the embankment. The facade is decorated with rich stucco work, typical of the period of trade flourishing in the 17th century.
Korenlei Today
Atmosphere and Best Vantage Points
Today, the Korenlei is a pedestrian zone, a favorite place for walks for both tourists and locals. Along the embankment are cafes and restaurants where you can enjoy traditional Belgian beer while admiring the reflections of the ancient facades in the water.
The best time to visit is evening, when the buildings are illuminated and their reflections create the illusion of a second, underwater city in the river. For photography, the ideal vantage point is Saint Michael`s Bridge, from which a panorama opens up, combining both banks and the three famous towers of Ghent.
Cultural Life
The Korenlei remains a cultural center. In summer, you can often hear street musicians here, and the embankment becomes one of the main venues during the Ghent Festivities – the largest urban festival in Europe. Tourist boats also depart from here onto the River Lys, offering a unique opportunity to view the houses from the water, just as merchants did centuries ago.
Interesting Facts
• The oldest house on Korenlei. The houses on the Korenlei date primarily from the 16th–18th centuries, although some have more ancient foundations.
• Relocation of guilds. Some houses on the Korenlei were literally "moved" from other districts of the city during the reconstruction of 1912 to create the ideal backdrop for the World`s Fair.
• History of the name. Until the 18th century, both embankments together were called Koornlei (Grain Embankment) or Tussenbruggen (Between the Bridges). The division into Graslei (Grass) and Korenlei (Grain) occurred later, by association with the main goods stored there.
• A lost mansion. On the site of today`s house No. 15 in the Middle Ages stood a luxurious mansion that was demolished in the 19th century.
Unlike its grand neighbor the Graslei, the Korenlei offers a more intimate atmosphere: here you can take a leisurely stroll along the water, admiring the enfilade of historic facades from the 16th–18th centuries, restored for the 1913 World`s Fair. It is from this side, especially from Saint Michael`s Bridge, that the most impressive view of Ghent`s three famous towers and the opposite bank opens up, where the guild houses are reflected in the calm waters of the River Lys. In the evening, when the lighting comes on, the embankment becomes one of the most romantic locations in the city.
