On the southern shore of West Lake (Xihu) in Hangzhou, on the summit of a greenery-covered hill, rises the majestic Leifeng Pagoda ("Pagoda of the Thundering Peak"). This is not just an architectural structure; it is a symbol where ancient history, folk myth, loss, and rebirth intertwine. Its silhouette, reflected in the waters of the lake, creates one of the most recognizable and poetic landscapes of China.
Exterior and architecture of the modern pagoda
The modern Leifeng Pagoda, rebuilt anew in 2002, is a grand structure in the traditional style of the Southern Song Dynasty.
Construction: it is an octagonal five-story pagoda with a height of 71.7 meters, built on a massive stone base-pedestal.
Materials: unlike ancient brick pagodas, the new structure is a steel frame, faced with copper and dark wood. This ensures its strength and durability. Thousands of decorative copper plates cover its roofs, creating an impressive view, especially in the rays of the setting sun, for which it received the poetic name "Evening Glow of Leifeng Pagoda" — one of the "Ten Views of West Lake".
Interior: inside, the pagoda is equipped with modern amenities: elevators and escalators, which carry visitors to the upper tiers. The walls of the inner halls are adorned with exquisite carved panels of rosewood and lacquer, which illustrate key scenes from the "Legend of the White Snake" — the story that forever linked the pagoda with folk culture.
Park around the pagoda
The pagoda is located in the center of the picturesque park "Evening Glow of the Thundering Peak". The Park is laid out in the classical Chinese style:
Terraces and gardens: The slopes of the hill are designed in the form of terraces, connected by winding stone staircases that lead to the summit. Traditional gardens with pine trees, flowering azaleas, and bamboo groves are laid out everywhere.
Views: From the upper tiers of the pagoda and from the park`s viewing platforms, a panoramic view of the entire West Lake opens up: bridges, islands, willows, and, especially symbolically, of Jingci Monastery, located opposite.
Legend of the White Snake
This is the most famous legend that made Leifeng Pagoda famous throughout China.
Plot: A young scholar Xu Xian meets the beautiful Bai Suzhen and her maid Xiao Qing. He marries Bai Suzhen, not knowing that she is actually an immortal white snake who took human form out of love for him.
Conflict: The cunning monk Fahai from Jingci Monastery learns her true nature. He believes that love between a human and a spirit is a sin and insists on their separation.
Imprisonment: after a series of dramatic confrontations, including a battle where Bai Suzhen causes a flood, Fahai gains the upper hand over her. To separate the lovers forever, he imprisons Bai Suzhen under Leifeng Pagoda, using it as a spiritual prison.
Symbolism: In this legend, Leifeng Pagoda becomes a symbol of cruel, inflexible law and asceticism, opposing the power of true love and compassion. The story has a happy ending: the son of Bai Suzhen and Xu Xian, born before her imprisonment, grows up, passes the imperial exams, and eventually frees his mother by destroying the pagoda.
History: from foundation to destruction and rebirth
First construction: The original pagoda was built in 975 AD by order of Qian Hongchu, king of the Wuyue state. It was erected in honor of the birth of the king`s son and in celebration of Wuyue`s victory over a neighboring kingdom. Initially, it was called "Huangfeita" (Pagoda of the Imperial Concubine) and was part of a temple complex.
Construction of the ancient pagoda: That pagoda was brick, octagonal, about 70 meters high, and had seven visible stories (the modern one has five). It was one of two giant pagodas that defined the skyline of Hangzhou (the other was Baochu Pagoda).
Destruction: Over its thousand-year history, the pagoda survived many wars and fires, which destroyed its wooden elements, leaving only the brick skeleton. By the 16th century, it was already severely damaged. But the main reason for its final decline was the popular belief in its "miraculous" power. A superstition held that bricks from its walls brought good luck, promoted the birth of sons, and protected from evil. People began to dismantle it for bricks. On September 1, 1924, weakened by centuries of looting, the pagoda finally collapsed.
Ruins of the ancient pagoda: After the collapse, the pagoda lay in ruins for almost 80 years. During the construction of the new pavilion in 2001, archaeologists carefully studied the foundation. Today, inside the base of the new pagoda, the ruins of the foundation and parts of the walls of the original pagoda from the Wuyue era (10th century) are preserved and put on public display.
Rebirth: The decision to restore the pagoda was made by the city authorities to return its symbol to Hangzhou. The new Leifeng Pagoda was solemnly opened on October 25, 2002. It was built not as an exact replica, but as a modern structure preserving the historical appearance, but using new technologies to protect the archaeological relics inside.
Thus, today`s Leifeng Pagoda is a unique architectural hybrid: a modern copper tower built over the untouched ruins of the 10th century, serving simultaneously as a museum, viewing platform, and eternal reminder of the power of love celebrated in legends.
