In the historic center of Macau, near the A-Ma Temple, stands the Mandarin`s House (Casa do Mandarim). This is not just a museum, but a perfectly preserved house that transports visitors to the 19th century, allowing them to see how a wealthy and influential Chinese family lived during Macau`s golden age. If you want to understand not the colonial, but the authentic Chinese side of the city`s history, this museum is an essential item on your itinerary.
The name "Mandarin`s House" speaks for itself. "Mandarin" is not a Portuguese, but a European name for high-ranking Chinese officials who obtained their positions through successful completion of the imperial examinations. This mansion belonged to the family of Zheng Guanying (1842-1922) – an outstanding thinker, reformer, writer, and successful businessman.
Zheng Guanying was a figure of great stature. He served as a manager in large Chinese trading companies that closely cooperated with foreigners and owned shares in shipping, telegraph, and banking. His most famous work – the book "Words of Warning in Times of Prosperity" – became a manifesto for China`s modernization.
His house in Macau, built in 1881, was not only a family nest but also an intellectual salon where Chinese and Western thinkers met. The Zheng family lived here until the 1990s, after which the building was carefully restored and transformed into a museum, opened to the public in 2002.
The Mandarin`s House is a brilliant example of Cantonese (Guangdong) style architecture from the Qing Dynasty period. Unlike the bright Portuguese buildings, its facade is restrained and elegant. The entire layout is subordinate to the principles of feng shui and traditional Chinese family hierarchy.
"Heyuan" Structure: This is the classic scheme with inner courtyards ("heyuan"). The house consists of several interconnected pavilions arranged along a central axis. Each subsequent courtyard was more private than the previous one, symbolizing the movement from public to private space.
First Courtyard (Outer): Served for receiving guests who were not family members and for conducting business. The main reception hall is located here.
Second and Subsequent Courtyards (Inner): This is the heart of family life. Here are located the altar for ancestor worship, the living quarters of the head of the family, his wives, and children. The women`s quarters of the house ("guifang") were particularly secluded from outsiders` eyes.
Carvings, and Paintings: Pay attention to the curved roofs with ceramic figurines that ward off evil spirits, the exquisite wood and brick carvings, and the frescoes with scenes from Chinese mythology and literature. Every detail has meaning – from the bat (a symbol of good luck) to the peony flower (wealth).
A visit to the Mandarin`s House is a true immersion into daily life. Here`s what to pay special attention to:
Main Reception Hall: Furnished with expensive black wooden furniture in the Qing Dynasty style. Here stands the throne for the head of the family, and on the walls are scrolls with calligraphy and paintings. This is the space where the family`s status and wealth were displayed.
Opium Smoking Room: An important and somewhat somber historical exhibit. The room is furnished with lacquered couches and contains a full set of opium smoking tools, reflecting a social problem of that time.
Zheng Guanying`s Study (The Scholar`s Room): The most atmospheric room. Here, the thinker`s desk is recreated with traditional calligraphy tools ("Wenfang Sibao"): brushes, ink, an inkstone, and paper.
Inner Courtyards and Garden: Quiet, cozy courtyards with stone paving, decorative plants in pots, and small ponds. They create a sense of tranquility and connection with nature right in the city center.
Authentic Household Items: Original utensils are placed throughout the house: Qing Dynasty porcelain vases, lacquer boxes, incense burners, traditional canopy beds, and elegant screens.
The Mandarin`s House in Macau is a museum that offers an interesting experience, different from the familiar Portuguese forts and churches. It is a chance to look into an authentic traditional Chinese house, to understand the family values, hierarchy, and aesthetics of 19th-century China`s high society. In just 30-40 minutes, you will take a journey back in time, seeing how under one roof the private life and business activity of one of the most influential families in Macau`s history were combined.