Old Cairo, or the Coptic Quarter, is a unique open-air archaeological layer where the history of Egypt is presented not in chronological order, but in a striking spatial interweaving. Within an area of just a few hectares, a Roman fortress, the oldest Christian churches in Africa, a synagogue, and a labyrinth of medieval streets coexist side by side.
This is the heart of Christian Egypt, the place where monasticism was born and where, according to tradition, the Holy Family—the Virgin Mary, Joseph, and the infant Christ—found refuge when they were forced to flee from Bethlehem.
Birth of the Fortress: Roman Babylon
The history of the quarter begins not with the Copts, but with the Romans. Around 100–150 AD, under Emperor Trajan, the powerful Babylon Fortress was built on the banks of the Nile. Its goal was strategic: to control the key shipping route and serve as the headquarters for the legions defending Roman Egypt.
What it looked like: It was a typical Roman fortress with high brick walls, round watchtowers, and an internal street system. It remains still shape the landscape of the quarter today. One tower of the Babylon Fortress has been preserved in the quarter, situated between two Christian churches. This tower once flanked the main gate of the fortress, and its height (about 20 meters) gives an idea of the power of the entire structure. The thickness of the walls is still astonishing today.
From Fortress to Quarter: The Birth of a Christian Center
After the departure of the Roman administration in the 6th-7th centuries, the fortress did not become empty. Its impregnable walls attracted the Christian community seeking protection. Inside and outside the walls, spontaneous, very dense construction began. Narrow streets (2–3 meters wide) emerged as passages between houses, forming the very labyrinth that can be seen today. It was during this period, in a very limited space, that more than 10 churches were built, literally within a hundred meters of each other.
The Jewels of the Quarter: Legendary Churches
• The Hanging Church of Saint Mary (Al-Muallaqa) — The most famous temple in the Coptic Quarter. Built in the 7th century, it is literally "suspended" over the gates of the Roman fortress, which gave it its name. It is one of the oldest churches in Egypt. Its interior is a treasury: a magnificent 13th-century cedarwood iconostasis inlaid with ivory and ancient frescoes. The main shrine is an icon of the Virgin Mary, painted, according to tradition, by the Evangelist Luke.
• The Church of Saint George (The Round Church) - The only round church in Cairo. It was erected in the 10th century directly on one of the round towers of the Roman Babylon Fortress. This is a clear symbol of continuity: a Christian temple grown on the foundation of Roman military might. The church belongs to the Greek Orthodox community, and its unusual shape makes it very recognizable.
• The Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus (Abu Serga) — Perhaps the most historically significant. Built in the 5th century on the spot where, according to Coptic tradition, the Holy Family stopped during their flight into Egypt from King Herod. In the church`s crypt (lower chapel) is the shrine - the room that served as their refuge. This makes Abu Serga one of the most important pilgrimage sites for Christians worldwide.
• The Monastery of Saint George (The Shrine) - Located in the depths of the quarter. This is an active convent, famous for its shrine (Shrine). The main relic is the Chains of Saint George, in which the Great Martyr is believed to have been shackled. This is a place of living pilgrimage where people come to pray for healing. The monastery serves as the "gateway" to the labyrinth of authentic narrow streets.
• Among other significant churches are the Church of Saint Barbara, which houses her relics, and the modest but ancient Church of Saint Menas.
The Ben Ezra Synagogue: A Layer of Jewish History
In the heart of the Christian quarter stands the Ben Ezra Synagogue, built in the 9th century. Tradition holds that it stands on the site where the prophetess Miriam, the sister of Moses, prayed. Interestingly, the building was originally a Coptic church, which the Christians sold to the Jewish community to pay taxes. In its archives in the 19th century, the priceless "Cairo Geniza"—a collection of medieval Jewish documents—was discovered.
To explore Old Cairo is to get lost in its alleyways. These streets, a couple of meters wide, with high walls and wooden mashrabiya screens, are very impressive. They have preserved the layout and atmosphere of an early medieval city. Old Cairo is not just a collection of antiquities. This is a place where you can physically walk the path from the Roman Empire to early Christianity, feeling how history has been layered, one stratum upon another.
