In the center of Ghent, rising above the medieval streets and the curves of the canals, stands Saint Bavo`s Cathedral (Sint-Baafskathedraal) – a majestic Gothic church whose history spans more than a thousand years. It is the city`s main church and one of the most significant religious and cultural structures in Belgium. Here lies one of the greatest masterpieces of Western European art – the famous Ghent Altarpiece, The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, by the van Eyck brothers.
The cathedral amazes with its scale, the elegance of its architectural forms, and the richness of its interior decoration. Its 89-meter tower dominates the panorama of the old city, while the interiors hold works of art created over the centuries – from medieval frescoes to Baroque sculptures.
History of Saint Bavo`s Cathedral
The First Churches (10th–12th Centuries)
The history of the cathedral began in the 10th century, when a wooden baptistery church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist was built on this site. In the mid-11th century, Count Baldwin I built a new Romanesque church here, now in stone, which became the city`s main church.
In 1038, Count Baldwin IV was buried in the Church of Saint John, emphasizing its importance to the comital family. In the 12th century, the church was expanded, and in the early 13th century, a Romanesque crypt was added, which survives to this day.
Gothic Reconstruction (13th–16th Centuries)
In the 14th century, a large-scale reconstruction of the church in the Gothic style began, spanning nearly three centuries. In 1274, the choir was laid; in 1462, the construction of the Counts` Chapel was completed; and in 1534, the western tower was built, though it was never completed to its intended height.
In 1539, after the Ghent Revolt against Emperor Charles V, the church was desecrated and plundered. The emperor ordered the destruction of part of the church property and the confiscation of valuables. It was then that the Ghent Altarpiece, created by the van Eyck brothers, was dismantled and partially removed, beginning its complex and dramatic history.
From the Church of Saint John to Saint Bavo`s Cathedral
In 1559, following the reorganization of the episcopal system in the Netherlands, the Church of Saint John was granted the status of a cathedral. It was re-consecrated in honor of Saint Bavo – the patron saint of Ghent, a 7th-century Christian hermit who was venerated as the protector of the city.
In the 16th and 17th centuries, the cathedral`s interior underwent significant changes. During the iconoclastic period of 1566, many works of art were destroyed, and during Spanish rule, the church was used as a military warehouse. Only in the 17th century, after the return of Catholic worship, did Saint Bavo`s Cathedral begin to be restored.
Restorations and the Present Day of Saint Bavo`s Cathedral
In the 19th century, during the era of Romanticism and the revival of interest in Gothic architecture, Saint Bavo`s Cathedral underwent a large-scale restoration. Architects sought to restore its medieval appearance, removing later additions. In 1935, the Ghent Altarpiece was conserved, and in 1986, the cathedral became the focus of special attention following the theft of the Just Judges panel, which has never been recovered.
Today, Saint Bavo`s Cathedral remains an active church, the main Catholic place of worship in the city, and one of Belgium`s most visited tourist attractions.
Architecture of Saint Bavo`s Cathedral
Exterior
Saint Bavo`s Cathedral is an impressive example of Brabantine Gothic, characteristic of the historic Netherlands. The main facade faces west, where the 89-meter tower rises, crowned with a spire. The tower was begun in 1534 but, due to a lack of funds and political instability, was never completed to its originally intended height. Nevertheless, it remains a dominant feature of the city`s skyline.
The facade is adorned with stone carvings, niches with statues of saints, and large pointed windows. Of particular note is the southern portal, executed in the late Gothic style, with rich sculptural decoration.
Interior
Upon entering, visitors find themselves in a spacious three-aisled hall, which impresses with its height and light. Pointed arcades, slender columns, and enormous windows with stained glass create a sense of upward aspiration characteristic of Gothic architecture.
The length of the cathedral is 89 meters, the width of the central nave is 24 meters, and the height of the vaults reaches 27 meters.
Among the architectural features, the following stand out:
• The Romanesque Crypt (12th century) – one of the oldest surviving parts of the cathedral, located beneath the choir. Here you can see fragments of 11th–12th-century masonry and early Christian burials.
• The Counts` Chapel (15th century) – a Gothic chapel where members of the Counts of Flanders dynasty are buried.
• The Choir (13th–14th centuries) – one of the earliest Gothic elements of the cathedral, with rich stone and wood carvings.
• The Pulpit (1741–1745) – a Baroque pulpit made of oak, black and white marble, created by the sculptor Laurent Delvaux. It is adorned with figures symbolizing Faith, Hope, and Love, as well as scenes from the life of Saint Bavo.
What Can Be Seen in Saint Bavo`s Cathedral
The High Altar and Stained Glass
The central place in the cathedral is occupied by the High Altar (17th century), executed in the Baroque style. Behind it are 19th-century stained glass windows depicting scenes from the life of Christ and the saints. Of particular note are the stained glass windows in the side chapels, some of which date back to the 16th century and miraculously survived the iconoclastic era.
The Ghent Altarpiece (The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb)
In the Vijdt Chapel in the southern part of the cathedral lies the main treasure – the Ghent Altarpiece, created in 1432 by the brothers Jan and Hubert van Eyck. This is one of the most significant masterpieces of Early Netherlandish painting, which marked the beginning of the European Renaissance in the art of Northern Europe.
The altarpiece is a complex polyptych of 24 panels, which is opened on certain days to reveal the interior with the central scene of the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. The work is renowned for its incredible detail, its use of oil painting perfected by the van Eycks, and its deep symbolism.
The altarpiece has a dramatic history: it was saved from iconoclasts, taken to France during the revolution, hidden in Austria, and in the 20th century survived Nazi looting before being returned to Ghent after World War II. In 1986, the Just Judges panel was stolen and has never been recovered.
Today, the altarpiece is displayed in a special climate-controlled glass case, and a detailed exhibition telling the story of its history and technique is available to visitors.
Other Works of Art
In addition to the altarpiece, Saint Bavo`s Cathedral houses numerous works of art:
• "Saint Bavo Entering the Monastery" – a painting by Peter Paul Rubens (1624), painted specifically for the cathedral. This enormous canvas depicts the moment of Saint Bavo`s conversion and is one of the masterpieces of Flemish Baroque.
• "The Conversion of Saint Paul" – a work by Jan van den Hoecke (17th century).
• The Baroque Organ (1935) – one of the largest organs in Belgium, with 70 stops, on which concerts are regularly held.
• Sculptures and Tombs – the cathedral preserves Gothic and Renaissance tomb slabs of the Counts of Flanders, as well as Baroque sculptural compositions.
• The Treasury – an exhibition of church utensils, vestments, reliquaries, and liturgical objects dating from the Middle Ages to the 18th century.
Practical Information
Address and How to Get to Saint Bavo`s Cathedral
The cathedral is located in the historic center, within walking distance of all the main attractions: Gravensteen Castle, the Belfry, and the Graslei and Korenlei quays.
• By tram: Lines 1, 4, 21, 22 to the Korenmarkt stop (a 5-minute walk).
• By bus: Routes 3, 17, 18, 38, 39 to the Gent Korenmarkt stop.
• On foot: 3 minutes from Korenmarkt Square, 7–10 minutes from Gravensteen Castle.
Interesting Facts
• The Unfinished Tower. The western tower of the cathedral was intended to reach 120 meters, but due to soil instability and political turmoil, construction was halted at 89 meters.
• The Baptism of Charles V. According to tradition, the future Holy Roman Emperor Charles V was baptized in this cathedral in 1500.
• Iconoclasm. In 1566, the cathedral suffered greatly from the wave of iconoclasm: many statues, stained glass windows, and works of art were destroyed.
• The Rescue of the Altarpiece. During World War I, the Ghent Altarpiece was taken by the Germans and was only returned after the signing of the Treaty of Versailles. During World War II, it was hidden in Altaussee Castle in Austria, from which it was rescued by American "Monuments Men."
• The Most Stolen Painting. The Just Judges panel was stolen in 1934 and has never been found. A copy now hangs in the altarpiece, and the original is considered one of the most notorious unsolved crimes in art history.
• Rubens for the Cathedral. Rubens` painting Saint Bavo Entering the Monastery was painted specifically for the cathedral`s high altar but today holds a place of honor in the north transept.
Saint Bavo`s Cathedral is a must-stop on any itinerary through Ghent. It is located in the very heart of the city, just steps away from the Belfry and Korenmarkt Square. Plan to spend at least an hour and a half on your visit, take an audio guide – it will tell you in detail about each work of art. Be sure to visit the Treasury and descend into the Romanesque crypt. And, of course, take time to see the Ghent Altarpiece.
