In the very heart of Coptic Cairo, on the grounds of the ancient Roman Fortress of Babylon, stands one of Egypt`s most unusual Christian shrines—the Church of Saint George (Mar Girgis). Unlike classical basilicas, this church is unique for its circular form, having been built directly atop one of the massive round towers of the fortress erected by Emperor Trajan in the 1st century AD.
The church`s history is closely tied to the centuries-old history of the site itself:
Roman Foundation (1st century AD): It all begins with the powerful round tower of the Babylon Fortress, which was part of the defensive gate complex. Its rough, time-worn sandstone masonry is perfectly visible today.
The First Church (10th century): The first mention of a church dedicated to Saint George the Victory-Bearer (highly venerated in the Christian East) on this site dates to the 10th century. It was built for the Greek Orthodox community of Cairo, underscoring the saint`s pan-Christian veneration.
Modern Appearance (19th–20th centuries): Having suffered from fires repeatedly, the church was radically rebuilt in 1909. It was then that it acquired its current, recognizable round dome. Today, it is the main church of the Greek Orthodox (Rum Orthodox) Patriarchate of Alexandria in Cairo.
The church`s architectural solution is a witty and symbolic response to the challenges of history.
Form and Structure: The building is a rotunda—a cylindrical structure crowned by a tall wooden dome covered with lead. This circular form was dictated by the very foundation—the round Roman tower upon which it was erected.
The "Hanging" Effect: As with Al-Muallaqa (the Church of Saint Mary, also called the "Hanging Church"), to enter, one must ascend a modern staircase. For several meters, you find yourself above ground level, with the exposed stones of Roman masonry directly beneath you. This creates a truly unique sensation and vividly demonstrates Cairo`s historical layers.
Bell Tower: Next to the church stands a separate, elegant bell tower, typical of Greek church architecture, which harmoniously complements the ensemble.
Inside, the church impresses not with Baroque richness but with airiness, light, and noble simplicity.
• The Dome: The interior space is crowned by a high wooden dome, painted sky-blue and adorned with gilded ornaments and images of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and apostles in medallions. It symbolizes the heavenly vault.
• The Iconostasis: The carved wooden iconostasis (altar screen) is executed in dark tones and decorated with icons in the Byzantine style.
• The Ambo and Choirs: A traditional ambo stands in the center of the hall, and two-tiered wooden choirs with carved railings, characteristic of Greek churches, are arranged around the circle.
• Natural Lighting: Large windows beneath the dome flood the interior with soft light, emphasizing the purity of lines and creating a prayerful, calm atmosphere.
The most venerated object in the church is not the altar but a large, freestanding icon of Saint George the Victory-Bearer. It is placed in a special kiot (glass-fronted case) near one of the columns, close to the entrance and the iconostasis.
The Image: Saint George is traditionally depicted as a young warrior in armor, seated on a white horse and slaying a serpent-dragon with his lance. This is a classic iconographic motif symbolizing the victory of good over evil, faith over paganism.
Veneration: Candles, lit by the faithful, always burn before the icon. People approach it to pray for protection, healing, and help in difficult circumstances.
What`s Important for Tourists:
Panorama: From the plaza in front of the church, one of the best views of Old Cairo opens up:
• Directly ahead—the domes and minarets of the Coptic Quarter.
• To the left—the Ben Ezra Synagogue.
• Below—gardens and the powerful Roman walls.
The Church of Saint George is a unique architectural symbol of Cairo, where three great eras are layered. Its foundation is a 1st-century Roman tower, the walls of which can still be seen today. Upon this ancient base in the 20th century, a circular church with a tall blue dome was erected, becoming the main Greek Orthodox church in the city.