On the banks of the River Lys, near Saint Michael`s Bridge, in the very heart of medieval Ghent, rises Saint Michael`s Church (Sint-Michielskerk) – one of the most harmonious and atmospheric churches in the city. Unlike its majestic neighbors – Saint Bavo`s Cathedral and Saint Nicholas` Church – this church often remains in the shadows, but it is here that one can truly appreciate the beauty of Ghent`s medieval architecture: the silence, the light streaming through the high Gothic windows.
Saint Michael`s Church is notable for its rare stylistic uniformity – despite the fact that its construction stretched over more than two centuries, it has preserved a remarkable unity of form and style. This makes it one of the finest examples of late Gothic architecture in Flanders.
History of the Church: The First Chapel and the Birth of the Parish (11th–12th Centuries)
The history of Saint Michael`s Church dates back to the early Middle Ages. In 1105, a chapel dedicated to the Archangel Michael already existed on the banks of the River Lys, founded by Saint Bavo`s Abbey. This was a response to the activity of another powerful monastery – Saint Peter`s Abbey, which had already erected the churches of Saint James and Saint Nicholas in the city center.
Originally, the chapel was subordinate to the parish of Saint Martin in Ekkergem, but in 1147 it gained independence, becoming a fully-fledged parish church. The Romanesque church built at the end of the 11th century has not survived – the 13th century brought several devastating fires, after which the church was repeatedly rebuilt.
Construction of the Gothic Church (1440–1825)
In 1440, an ambitious decision was made – to erect a new, far more imposing church on this site in the late Gothic style. Construction stretched over many centuries. By the beginning of the 16th century, the nave and transept were completed. In 1528, the western tower was finished, but only to two levels – the intended height was still far off.
In 1566, construction was interrupted by the wave of iconoclasm. Saint Michael`s Church was plundered, and the interior and choir were destroyed. In 1578, the Calvinists caused further destruction, and in 1579, the old Gothic choir was completely demolished. Only in 1623 did restoration begin – the early Gothic choir was replaced with a new one, executed in the Brabantine Gothic style, with an ambulatory and five chapels.
An Unrealized Dream: The Tower That Was to Be the Tallest
In 1662, the local architect Lieven Cruyl developed a project to complete the western tower. According to his design, the spire was to reach 134 meters, which would have made Saint Michael`s Church the owner of the tallest tower in Ghent (for comparison: the tower of Saint Bavo`s Cathedral is 89 meters, and the Belfry is 91 meters).
However, this ambitious project was not destined to be realized. Work resumed only in 1658, but due to lack of funds and political instability, construction was never completed. In 1828, a flat roof was built over the tower, and the 134-meter spire project remained on the drawing boards.
Revolutionary Turmoil and Revival
During the French Revolution, when church services were prohibited, the interior of Saint Michael`s Church again suffered – many works of art were lost or removed. Only on April 12, 1802, did the church reopen to parishioners.
In the 20th century, restoration work continued. In 1909, under the direction of architect Modest de Noyette, the western part of the church was restored, and a Neo-Baroque sacristy was added. In the early 20th century, during the construction of Saint Michael`s Bridge, part of the old sacristy was demolished, giving the church`s modern appearance a new architectural expressiveness.
Architecture of Saint Michael`s Church: Unity of Style in an Age of Change
Exterior
Saint Michael`s Church in Ghent is an example of late Brabantine Gothic. This style is characterized by the use of sandy limestone, intricate cross, net, and star vaults, as well as tall, wide pointed windows.
Remarkably, even though construction stretched over more than 200 years, the building demonstrates a striking stylistic uniformity. This is a rare phenomenon for such a long-term project and is one of the church`s main architectural values. The architecture of the church is a living testament to how Gothic continued to live and develop even during the Renaissance and Baroque eras.
The main facade faces the River Lys, and it is from Saint Michael`s Bridge that the best view of the church opens up. From here, one can see the massive but unfinished western tower, which has become an integral part of the famous panorama of Ghent`s three towers.
Interior
The interior space continues the theme of Gothic harmony. The interior of Saint Michael`s Church in Ghent is also characterized by a rare uniformity, creating an atmosphere of peace and tranquility – a true "island of silence" in the bustling city center.
Among the architectural features of the interior, the following stand out:
• The Neo-Gothic high altar by Jan van Arendonck.
• The pulpit by Jean François Franck, executed in the Neo-Gothic style.
• Confessionals from various stylistic periods, including the early Baroque confessional by François Cruyt with sculptures by Michiel van der Voort the Elder.
The organ, built in 1817 by the master Pierre Jean de Volder. The organ facade is executed in the Neo-Gothic style. In 1951, the instrument was reconstructed and expanded by the organ builder Paul Anneessens. Today, the organ has 47 registers across three manuals and pedals.
Treasures of Saint Michael`s Church
Saint Michael`s Church is not only an architectural monument but also a true treasury of Flemish art. Here one finds works by outstanding masters of the 16th and 17th centuries.
Masterpieces of Painting
• "Golgotha" ("Christ on the Cross") – a work by Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641). This is the church`s most precious treasure. The painting was executed in 1630 specifically for this church. It is distinguished by its incredible emotional power: a simple composition and expressive gestures of the mourners give the scene a deep meditative resonance. The work is included in the list of Flemish Masterpieces.
• "The Raising of Lazarus" – a painting by Otto van Veen (1557–1629), the teacher of Peter Paul Rubens. The work is located in the Chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows and represents the style of High Renaissance painting.
• "The Penitence of David" – a work by Jan Boeckhorst (1605–1668), a student of Rubens and Jordaens. The painting depicts the Old Testament King David after his rebuke by the prophet Nathan. It is also included in the list of Flemish Masterpieces.
• "Saint Francis of Paola" – a work by the Spanish master Jusepe de Ribera (1591–1652), known as "Lo Spagnoletto." The painting is located in the Chapel of Saint Francis.
• "The Assumption of Mary" – a painting by Hendrick van Balen (1575–1632), the teacher of Anthony van Dyck. It is in the Chapel of Saint Theresa.
Sculpture
"Madonna and Child" – a marble sculpture by Rombout Pauwels (1625–1692), executed under the influence of Michelangelo. It is located in the Chapel of the Loreto Brotherhood.
The church also features eight marble statues of saints, a wooden sculpture of Saint Sebastian by J. Fransiscus Allaert, and a sculpture of Saint Livinus by Laurent Delvaux.
Church Treasury
Saint Michael`s Church in Ghent possesses a rich collection of silver and gold liturgical objects. Among the most valuable relics are:
• The Reliquary of Saint Dorothy made of silver.
• The Holy Crown of Thorns – a relic brought to the church by Mary Stuart.
• A fragment of the Life-Giving Cross – a gift from Archdukes Albert and Isabella (1619).
• A rich collection of obbieten – memorial tablets of Ghent nobility and patricians.
• A collection of liturgical vestments from the 16th to 19th centuries, including a large chasuble donated by Amelie Borluut.
Acoustics and Musical Life
Saint Michael`s Church in Ghent is renowned for its unique acoustics. Thanks to the characteristics of the Gothic space, sound here propagates with exceptional clarity – whether for a small vocal ensemble or a symphony orchestra.
The church frequently hosts renowned orchestras and soloists as part of the "Festival of Flanders." During the Ghent Festivities, concerts, photography exhibitions, organ concerts, and even watercolor workshops take place here.
Interesting Facts
• The tallest tower that was never meant to be. Had Lieven Cruyl`s 1662 project been realized, the 134-meter tower of Saint Michael`s Church would have become the tallest structure in Ghent.
• Construction lasting 385 years. Formally, construction of the church began in 1440 and was only completed in 1825.
• A gift from Mary Stuart. The relic of the Holy Crown of Thorns was given to the church by the Scottish queen Mary Stuart.
• Ideal acoustics. The acoustic properties of the church are so exceptional that symphony concerts are regularly held here.
• Three museums in one church. The church features works by van Dyck, Otto van Veen, and Jusepe de Ribera – a Spanish master whose works are rarely found in Flanders.
Saint Michael`s Church is not just another Gothic church in a city where there are many. It is a place where the history of Flemish art is presented in its concentrated form: architecture that has survived centuries, canvases by great masters, the silence of ancient vaults, and a unique acoustics that comes alive under the sound of the organ.
