Selçuk is a small but incredibly historic town in western Turkey, located just 3 km from the legendary Ephesus. Its fate is closely tied to the decline of the great ancient metropolis. Thousands of tourists visit Ephesus every day, unaware that just a short walk away lies a town filled with equally fascinating attractions.
During its heyday, Ephesus was a major port on the Aegean Sea, but due to the silting of the bay (sediment from the Küçük Menderes River) and malaria-infested swamps, the city gradually fell into decline. By the 6th century AD, residents began relocating to a nearby hill, where the settlement of Ayasuluk emerged (from the Greek "Agios Theologos"—"Holy Theologian," in honor of John the Apostle).
Byzantine Glory: The Basilica of St. John
In the 6th century, Emperor Justinian I ordered the construction of a grand basilica over the believed burial site of the apostle John, author of the Gospel and Revelation. The temple became one of the largest in Byzantium (130 m long), with six domes and marble columns. Later, a fortified city grew around it, becoming the new religious center of the region.
Ayasuluk Fortress: Byzantium`s Last Stronghold
In the 11th–13th centuries, as Ephesus was completely abandoned, the Byzantines built the Ayasuluk Fortress on the hill to defend against the Seljuks. Its massive walls (up to 3 m thick) and 15 towers have survived to this day. However, in 1304, the city fell to the Seljuk Turks under the leadership of the Aydınoğulları dynasty, who established a beylik (principality) here.
Turkish Era: The İsa Bey Mosque
In 1375, the Seljuk emir İsa Bey built a magnificent mosque at the foot of the fortress—one of the finest examples of early Ottoman architecture. Its design was created by Ali ibn al-Dimashqi, an architect from Damascus. The mosque blends Seljuk (ornate portal) and Byzantine (columns from the Basilica of St. John) elements. In its courtyard stands an ancient sarcophagus repurposed as a fountain.
Ancient Heritage: The Temple of Artemis
Just 2 km from Selçuk lie the ruins of the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus—one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. All that remains of the colossal structure (115 m long) is a single reconstructed column from the 19th century. The temple was destroyed by the Goths in 263 AD, and its stones were later used to build the basilica and mosque.
The Cave of the Seven Sleepers
At the foot of Mount Panayır lies the Cave of the Seven Sleepers—a shrine revered by both Christians and Muslims. According to legend, seven youths walled up here in the 3rd century miraculously awoke 200 years later. Above the cave are the ruins of a 5th-century church and Islamic graves.
Aqueduct: Water Supply for the Ancient City
Near the İsa Bey Mosque runs a Byzantine aqueduct (6th century) that once supplied water to Ayasuluk. Its 15-meter-high arches are a favorite photo spot.
Selсuk Today
• Archaeological Museum with artifacts from Ephesus (including a statue of Artemis).
• Traditional bazaars on Saturdays.
• Basilica of St. John (partially restored).
• Fortress with panoramic views of the town.
Selçuk is a unique blend of eras, where in a single day you can see ancient ruins, Byzantine churches, Seljuk mosques, and Ottoman houses. The town that replaced Ephesus has itself become a living piece of history. It’s a must-visit stop if you’re planning a trip to ancient Ephesus.
