The Circum-Baikal Railway (CBR) is not just a route from point A to point B. It is an open-air museum, one of the most scenic and technically complex railways in the world, laid along the very shore of Lake Baikal. Today, it is an extremely popular tourist route, a must-visit for anyone who wants to see the power of engineering set against the harsh nature of Baikal.
History of the CBR`s Construction
Construction of the Trans-Siberian Railway began in 1891 and was officially completed in 1900. However, at the time of its commissioning, the Trans-Sib was "broken" by Baikal from 1900 to 1905. These were five long years during which the railway, intended to connect the country, dead-ended at the deepest lake on the planet.
While the incredibly difficult construction of the CBR was underway, the problem of the gap was solved with a water ferry service. For this purpose, unique vessels were ordered from England: the ferry-icebreaker "Baikal" and the smaller icebreaker "Angara". Baikal was the most powerful and largest ferry-icebreaker in the world at the time of its launch (1899). Its length was 88 meters, and it was capable of breaking ice up to 1.5 meters thick. Its main feature was its ability to accommodate 25 loaded railway cars on its railroad deck.
During the navigation period (when the lake was free of ice), it reliably shuttled between stations, transporting cars and passengers. In winter, when the ice on Baikal became especially thick and rugged, even the mighty "Baikal" often could not cope. Crossings were canceled for weeks. When the "Baikal" could not pass, an archaic method was used: goods were reloaded from railway cars onto sleds and transported across the lake ice by horse-drawn transport. Strong storms, frequent on Baikal, also made the crossing impossible.
The icebreaker "Baikal" was a brilliant engineering solution, but it was only a temporary and emergency measure. Its work clearly demonstrated that without a permanent railway line around Baikal, the Trans-Siberian Railway could not function as a reliable, year-round transport artery. It was these five years of difficulties and interruptions that ultimately proved the vital necessity of building the Circum-Baikal Railway, no matter how complex and expensive it was.
Active construction of the CBR along the shore began in 1899 and continued under extremely difficult conditions until 1905. It was a grand and incredibly expensive project.
Technical Complexity: On a section only 94 kilometers long (from Port Baikal to the station of Kultuk), engineers had to blast 39 tunnels with a total length of about 9 km, build 248 bridges and viaducts, 16 stone galleries protecting the track from rockfalls, and about 270 retaining walls. In terms of the density of engineering structures, the CBR has no analogues in Russia and is one of the world leaders.
The "Golden Buckle": Due to its cost and complexity, the railway received the unofficial name "The Golden Buckle of Russia". "Buckle" because it connected the broken Trans-Siberian Railway, and "Golden" because of the exorbitant costs of its construction.
Initially, the CBR was part of the Trans-Sib, but after the construction of a more direct route from Irkutsk to Slyudyanka, its importance as a mainline declined. It became a dead-end branch, which helped it preserve its unique historical appearance.
The construction of the direct route from Irkutsk to Slyudyansk via the Olkha Plateau (the route all Trans-Sib trains use today) was completed in 1949. After the filling of the Irkutsk Reservoir in 1956, the section of the CBR from Irkutsk to Port Baikal was dismantled and flooded. The section from Port Baikal to Slyudyanka has been preserved to this day but was not used for mainline traffic.
The CBR Today: A Tourist Gem of Baikal
After the main flow of trains moved to the new route, the CBR turned into a tourist attraction. This section is a branch of the Irkutsk Museum of Railway Engineering and is protected as a monument of engineering and architectural heritage.
Getting to the CBR can be done in several ways, which is an adventure in itself.
1. The Most Popular Route: From Listvyanka by Ship and on Foot
This is the classic option, combining a boat trip and a hiking trek.
• Start: You depart from the village of Listvyanka, which is easy to reach from Irkutsk by shuttle bus or car.
• Water Part: From the port of Listvyanka, you sail on a comfortable motor ship along the picturesque shores of Lake Baikal. The journey takes about 1-1.5 hours. The ship docks at one of the points on the CBR, most often at Port Baikal station or in Peschanaya Bay.
• Walking Part: After disembarking, you begin a walk along the railway itself. This is safe, as train traffic here is very rare. You can walk through several tunnels, cross high viaducts over bays, see the engineering structures up close, and take stunning photos. The route is usually designed for 3-5 km, after which you will be picked up by the same or another motor ship.
This route is ideal for those who want to feel the scale of the structures up close and enjoy a walk in the fresh Baikal air.
2. The Romantic Route: On a Retro Train
For those who want to travel the entire length of the railway without physical exertion, an excursion on a special tourist train is perfect.
• The Train: Trains on the CBR often operate on steam traction, creating an unforgettable atmosphere of traveling into the past. Modern diesel locomotives with comfortable carriages also run.
• The Route: The train departs from Slyudyanka station or Irkutsk-Sortirovochny and slowly, so tourists can enjoy the views, proceeds to Baikal station. During the journey, the train makes several long stops at the most beautiful and interesting places (for example, at Polovinny Cape, Shumikha station), where you can get off, explore the tunnels and bridges, and take photos.
• Features: This is the most comfortable and informative way to get acquainted with the CBR. Guides talk about the history of its construction during the trip, and the windows offer continuous panoramas of Baikal, inaccessible from the roads.
The Circum-Baikal Railway is a very interesting excursion. Walking along the old sleepers or looking out the window of a retro train carriage, you are not just admiring the scenery. Here you can see all the engineering difficulties of laying a railway through a mountainous landscape on the shore of a lake.
