If you look at the map of Russia, Baikal appears as a narrow blue crescent, lost somewhere in Siberia. In reality, its scale is only grasped on the spot. It`s not a lake in the conventional sense. The length of Baikal is comparable to the distance from Moscow to St. Petersburg. In area, it`s almost equal to the territory of Belgium, and to travel around it, you`d have to cover over two thousand kilometers.
People don`t come here for resort comfort and sun loungers. Baikal is a place for those who are prepared to put up with long journeys on bumpy roads, simple food, and changeable weather for the main thing – the feeling of complete immersion in wild, untouched nature. Everything here is authentic: the taiga comes right down to the water`s edge, the air is clean and fresh, and the local people are accustomed to harsh conditions and value simplicity and reliability. The uniqueness of Baikal lies not in beautiful epithets, but in concrete facts.
What Makes Baikal Unique
• Size: Length — 636 km, depth — over 1600 meters. This isn`t a lake, it`s a sea in the middle of the continent.
• Water: It is truly very transparent. Visibility reaches 20-40 meters. Thanks to unique microorganisms, the water can be drunk by scooping it up by hand in the open lake, away from settlements.
• Age and Life: Baikal is about 25 million years old. During this time, its own unique ecosystem, unlike any other, has formed here. Its main symbol is the Baikal seal, a freshwater seal.
• Ice: In winter, Baikal freezes, and the ice is a spectacle in itself. It is transparent, cracks with a roar like gunshots, and forms bizarre hummocks (torosy).
How to Organize a Trip to Baikal
The main principle: don`t try to embrace the immensity. Choose one or two areas for a deep immersion.
1. If you have little time (1-3 days). Your base is Irkutsk or Listvyanka.
Listvyanka (70 km from Irkutsk): The nearest point on Baikal to Irkutsk. It`s easy to get to, but it`s the most touristy and bustling village.
What to do: Visit the Baikal Limnological Museum to understand what Baikal is like "from the inside." Watch a seal show at the nerpinarium. Try smoked omul at the market. Take the cable car up to the Chersky Stone viewpoint.
Cons: Don`t expect solitude and wilderness here. This is the introductory part of Baikal.
2. If you have a week (the ideal option)
Your goal is Olkhon and the Maloye More (Small Sea). This is the heart of Baikal, where its main landscapes are concentrated.
How to get there: From Irkutsk by car or bus (250 km, 5-6 hours). In summer, there is an option by water on a "Kometa" hydrofoil (6-7 hours).
Base: The village of Khuzhir is the only large settlement on the island. There are guest houses, cafes, and shops there. An alternative is tourist bases on the coast of the Maloye More (the mainland part opposite Olkhon).
What to see on Olkhon and in the Maloye More area:
• Cape Burkhan (Shaman Rock): The landmark of Baikal. It`s better to come at dawn or dusk when there are no crowds of tourists.
• Saraysky Beach: An extensive sandy beach a 20-minute walk from Khuzhir. In summer, you can swim here — the water in the Maloye More warms up best.
• Cape Khoboy: A trip in an off-road vehicle over rough terrain. Rocky capes, wind, and a feeling of being at the edge of the world. Book a tour in Khuzhir.
• Bays of the Maloye More: Sarma, Zagli, Khuzhir-Nuga. Ideal for camping or staying at secluded bases. Here you`ll find warm water, sandy beaches, and pine trees.
Other Attractions of Baikal
Sandy Bay (Bukhta Peschanaya)
This is one of the most photogenic places on Baikal, known for its sand dunes and "stilted" trees. It can only be reached by water, which guarantees relative seclusion.
How to get there: In summer, excursion boats run from Irkutsk or Listvyanka. The journey takes about 3-4 hours one way.
What to do: Enjoy the scenery. Walk along the sandy beach, climb up to the "stilted trees" (larches with exposed roots that rise above the sand), swim in the shallow bay (the water here warms up a bit better than in the open Baikal). From the bay, several paths lead along the shore for short hikes.
Important: There is almost no infrastructure. Bring water, food, and sunscreen with you. You can stay overnight at one of the two tourist bases.
Circum-Baikal Railway (CBR / KBZhD)
This is not just a railway, but an open-air museum. A section of the old railway built in the early 20th century, which was cut through the cliffs along the shore of Baikal. Here, over 84 km of track, there is a huge number of tunnels, bridges, and viaducts.
How to get there: The most popular way is to take a tourist train (often with a steam locomotive at the head) from the railway station in Irkutsk or Slyudyanka. The train moves slowly along the route, making stops at the most scenic spots for photos.
What to do: Admire the engineering art and the landscapes. Get off at stops to walk through the old tunnels, see the stone galleries (arches protecting the road from landslides), and take panoramic shots of Baikal.
For whom: Ideal for those tired of rough roads and who want to comfortably see the southern coast of Baikal. It`s a great option for 1 day.
Winter on Baikal - A Different Planet
From February to March, Baikal turns into the world`s largest natural ice rink. This is the high season for photographers and those seeking truly unique experiences. Baikal ice is not just frozen water.
Transparent ice: In bays where there is no snow, the ice freezes to the state of thick glass. You can see the bottom through it, and cracks go deep down into the blue depths. You can walk on such ice and see everything beneath your feet.
Hummocks (Torosy): On the powerful ice, piles of ice blocks form — hummocks (torosy). They can be as high as a house. This is the result of the colossal pressure of the ice fields.
Methane bubbles: The most photographed phenomenon. Methane bubbles rising from the bottom freeze in the ice thickness, creating surreal patterns. Important: Do not make fire near large accumulations of bubbles.
Ice grottoes and caves: They are formed by waves that wash ice onto the rocks along the shore. Inside, the ice is perfectly smooth and turquoise, illuminated by the sun. The most famous and accessible grottoes are at Cape Skala Shamanka on Olkhon and on Northern Baikal (for example, in Aya Bay). The caves are constantly changing shape, and access to them depends on the ice conditions.
Why people come here in winter:
• To see a different Baikal. The glacial landscape has nothing in common with the summer one.
• To travel on the perfect ice. On skates, bicycles, or by car on the ice road (zimnik).
• To take unique photographs. Nowhere else in the world are there such ice landscapes.
• To feel the silence. In winter, an absolute, deafening silence reigns on the ice.
Practical advice for a winter trip:
When to go: The ideal time is late February to mid-March. The ice is already strong, there is little snow, and there`s a lot of sun.
Clothing: Serious gear is required — thermal underwear, fleece, a down jacket, a windproof outer layer, warm footwear with thick soles (preferably with heated insoles), a hat, a balaclava.
Safety: Never travel on the ice alone and without a local guide! The ice is uneven; there are dangerous spots with thin ice (cracks, proparinas - areas of thin ice). Guides know safe routes.
If you have more than a week or you love wild nature
The Eastern Coast (Barguzin Bay, Chivyrkuisky Bay): People come here for hot springs, completely wild beaches, and fishing. It`s harder to get to, there`s less infrastructure, but also far fewer people.
The Great Baikal Trail (GBT): For hiking enthusiasts. There are routes of varying difficulty, for example, from Listvyanka to the village of Bolshiye Koty (20 km along the shore).
Practical Tips. When to go to Baikal:
• July-August: The warmest period. You can swim in the bays and comfortably live in tents. But also the most tourists.
• September-October: Golden autumn. Fiery colors of the forests, clear skies. Too cold for swimming, but very beautiful.
• February-March: Ice season. Baikal under ice is a fantastic sight. Very cold, but unique.
Transport: Without your own or a rented car, moving between remote points is very difficult. The main transport between villages is minibuses and scheduled boats in summer.
Accommodation: Book in advance, especially on Olkhon in high season. Options range from hotels to guest houses and campsites.
Food: Be sure to try omul (in any form — smoked, salted, grilled), Siberian pelmeni (dumplings), salad from cheremsha (wild garlic/ramson).
What to take with you: Even in summer — warm clothes (a sweater, a windbreaker), a windproof jacket, comfortable hiking shoes, a head covering, sunscreen, and repellents for midges and mosquitoes.
Baikal is a place where you need to slow down. Don`t chase the number of points on the map. Choose Olkhon, breathe in the scent of the pines and the Baikal wind, sit by a bonfire on the shore in the evening, and you will understand its main magic — in the simple and eternal grandeur of nature.
