When people talk about Bellinzona, they first remember its famous castles — Castelgrande, Montebello, and Sasso Corbaro. At the foot of these stone giants lies a cozy, authentic Old Town, which in itself deserves no less attention. This is a place where medieval planning, Italian love of life, and Swiss order have created a unique atmosphere of southern Ticino.
The Old Town of Bellinzona is a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets (here they are called "viccoli"), ancient squares, patios, arcades, and churches. It is located in the valley between the rocks on which the castles rise, and is organically connected to them by pedestrian routes. Walking here, you seem to travel back to the Renaissance era, when the city was an important trade and military hub on the route from Italy to Northern Europe.
Historical outline of the Old Town of Bellinzona
The history of Bellinzona spans more than two thousand years. Thanks to its strategic position at the entrance to the Ticino valley and on the route to the St. Gotthard Pass, this territory was inhabited as early as the Neolithic period. However, it was the Romans who laid the foundations of the urban structure.
Roman period (1st century BC – 5th century AD): on the site of the modern Old Town, the Romans founded a military camp (castrum) and a small settlement. They were the first to appreciate the strategic importance of the rock on which Castelgrande later grew. Fragments of walls and foundations from the Roman period have been preserved, which can be seen in the basements of some buildings and in the archaeological zones under Castelgrande.
Middle Ages (6th–15th centuries): after the fall of the Roman Empire, the region passed from hand to hand: Lombards, Franks, bishops of Como. In the 12th–13th centuries, Bellinzona became a free commune, but constantly fought for independence with neighbouring Milan and Como. It was during this time that the modern network of narrow streets and squares was formed. In 1335, the city finally came under the control of the Milanese Visconti family, and then the Sforza. Under the Milanese, the Old Town was fortified with walls that connected Castelgrande and Montebello, turning the entire complex into a single defensive system.
Architecture and urban planning of the Old Town
The Old Town of Bellinzona is compact but rich. The best way to explore it is to simply walk along the streets and alleys.
Narrow streets (Viccoli): The main "feature" of the Old Town is a network of pedestrian streets sometimes no more than two meters wide. The pavement is laid with smooth river stone, which has been polished for centuries by the steps of citizens and raindrops. The walls of houses are often plastered in warm tones — from terracotta to ochre.
Porticoes and arcades: due to the hot summers in Ticino, many streets are equipped with covered arcades (porticoes). They not only provide shelter from the sun but also create a special play of light and shadow. Under the arcades are small cafes, boutiques, and workshops.
Patios (inner courtyards): behind inconspicuous doors on the streets, quiet inner courtyards with fountains (billoni), wells, and pots of oleanders are often hidden. Some of them are open to the public, others are private property.
Main squares: unlike many Swiss cities, Bellinzona does not have one giant main square. Its role is played by several interconnected spaces:
• Piazza Collegiata: the central square, which houses the Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Stephen and the Town Hall building. This is the liveliest place in the city.
• Piazza Nosetto: a small cozy square with a fountain and old buildings, where it is pleasant to have a coffee.
• Piazza Indipendenza: the square at the foot of Castelgrande, where markets and city festivals are often held.
Houses with frescoes: In the Old Town of Bellinzona, ancient patrician houses have been preserved, the facades of which are decorated with frescoes from the 16th–17th centuries. These images (often on religious or mythological subjects) are evidence of the wealth and taste of their former owners.
What to see in the Old Town of Bellinzona
Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Stephen (Collegiata dei Santi Pietro e Stefano):
This is the main church of the Old Town, built in the 16th century on the site of an older Romanesque basilica. Its facade is in the late Renaissance style with elements of Baroque. Inside, you will find luxurious decoration: stucco, gilding, and frescoes by famous Ticino artists. Be sure to pay attention to the organ — one of the best in the canton. The church is open daily for free visits.
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie (Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie):
Hidden in one of the alleys, this small 15th-century church is famous for its fresco "Madonna and Child with Saints" by an unknown master of the school of Leonardo da Vinci. This place attracts pilgrims and art lovers with its quiet and intimate atmosphere.
Town Hall Building (Paletto Civico / Municipio):
An elegant building on Piazza Collegiata with a characteristic loggia and a clock on the facade. Inside are the city authorities, but tourists are interested in the facade itself and the surrounding space.
Casa Purina (Casa Purina):
An example of a typical 16th-century patrician house with a beautiful inner courtyard and frescoes on the facade. Located near Piazza Nosetto.
Market Square and morning market:
Every morning (except Sunday) on Piazza Indipendenza and the adjacent streets, a real Italian market unfolds. Here they sell fresh vegetables, fruits, cheeses, sausages, local Merlot wine, and flowers. This is an excellent place to experience the local flavor and buy food for a picnic.
Traditions and cuisine: what to try
The Old Town of Bellinzona is a gastronomic pleasure.
• Grotti (Grottini): Ticino is famous for its "grotti" — traditional village trattorias, often located in the basements or semi-basements of old houses. They serve simple, hearty local cuisine. Be sure to order:
• Polenta: Corn porridge, which here is a national dish. Served with stewed meat, mushrooms, or cheese.
• Bollito: Boiled meat with sauces.
• Luganega: Local long and thin pork sausage.
• Formaggini: Small fried cheese pies.
• Merlot wine: Merlot grapes are the pride of Ticino. Try the local Merlot del Ticino, red or white (Merlot bianco).
• Bakeries and pastry shops: in the narrow streets you will find small bakeries that bake traditional flatbreads, biscuits, and bread. Be sure to try "paradisini" — small almond cakes.
Pedestrian routes: how to connect the city and the castles
The Old Town is designed in such a way that you can easily reach all three castles from it.
Route to Castelgrande: from Piazza Indipendenza or from Piazza Collegiata, climb the pedestrian staircase or via the elevator (located in the building on the edge of the square) directly to the territory of the ancient castle. The journey takes 2–5 minutes.
Route to Montebello: From Piazza Collegiata, go up Viale Stazione, then turn onto the old cobbled road that climbs through the vineyards. Or use the "Arthur" tourist train, which departs from the center. The walk uphill will take 15–20 minutes.
Route to Sasso Corbaro: The most difficult. Walk from Montebello along a steep staircase through the vineyards (about 20 minutes). Or climb up from the Carasso quarter (southeastern part of the Old Town). This route is for the hardy, but it is generously rewarded with views.
Useful information for the traveller
How to get to the Old Town of Bellinzona:
By train: Bellinzona railway station is only a 5–7 minute walk from the Old Town. Exit the station, cross the square, and under the arch enter the old quarters.
By car: Parking in the Old Town is limited. It is recommended to leave your car in the large parking lots near the station (Parcheggio Stazione) or at Parcheggio Castelgrande (underground parking at the foot of the castle of the same name).
By bus: Regional buses stop at the station or at Piazza Collegiata.
Tips for the traveller
• Drink water from fountains: there are many public fountains (billoni) in the city with clean drinking water. Bring a reusable bottle.
• Learn to get lost: do not follow the map strictly. Turn into any alleys — that is where you will find the most charming corners, frescoes, and hidden courtyards.
• Have breakfast like a local: go to a bakery, take a fresh croissant and cappuccino, and eat them standing at the counter, like the Italians.
• Plan the castles for the morning: if you are going to climb Montebello or Sasso Corbaro, do it in the morning while it is not too hot and the sun is shining on the facades.
• Check museum opening hours: especially in the off-season. Some churches and small museums may be closed in the afternoon (siesta).
The Old Town of Bellinzona is an example of medieval urbanism with a continuous history of settlement from the Roman period to the present day. Unlike many reconstructed historical centers of Switzerland, the buildings of Bellinzona have preserved the original layout of the 13th–15th centuries with a characteristic network of narrow passages (viccoli) and closed arcades. The architectural value of the area is confirmed by its inclusion in the buffer zone of the UNESCO World Heritage site (the three castles). In fact, the Old Town serves as the lower defensive belt and logistics hub connecting the three fortresses.
