Syntagma Square in Athens is a focal point of historical monuments from modern Greek history. Here stands the building of the Greek Parliament — the seat of the country`s legislative authority — in front of which lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The changing of the guard ceremony, held here every hour, is one of Athens` main attractions and consistently draws large numbers of tourists.
The Current Parliament: Former Palace of the Kings
The monumental building before which the honorary guard stands still was originally not built for parliamentarians at all. It is the former Royal Palace. When in the 1830s the young Bavarian prince Otto became the first king of modern Greece, he required a worthy residence. The German architect Friedrich von Gärtner designed a strict, majestic building in the Neoclassical style. Construction lasted from 1836 to 1843.
The location was chosen deliberately: the hill in front of the palace allowed the monarch to keep the entire square and the route to the Acropolis under observation — both beautiful and secure. The palace served as the royal residence for almost a hundred years. Otto lived here, followed by George I. After a severe fire in 1909, the royal family moved to another mansion, and the old building gradually changed hands.
In 1924, Greece became a republic. The former palace was used as a hospital, a museum, and even as a shelter for thousands of refugees following the Asia Minor Disaster. It was only in 1929 that a fateful decision was made: to hand it over to Parliament. The first session in the new building took place in 1935 — and legislators have convened here ever since.
Today, as you gaze at the facade of white Pentelic marble (the very same used for the Parthenon), take note of the sculptures in the garden. To the left and right of the staircase stand statues of the great reformers — Charilaos Trikoupis and Eleftherios Venizelos, the men who built modern Greece. This is the place where, against the backdrop of marble columns, the fate of the homeland of democracy is decided.
The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Greek Parliament
But the main thing on Syntagma Square is not the politicians in the halls. The main thing is the concrete and marble at the staircase before the Parliament facade. Here lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. This is not merely a gravestone, but an altar of sorrow and pride for the entire nation.
The monument was opened on March 25, 1932. In the center of the wall is carved a large marble slab depicting an ancient warrior in a helmet, clutching a shield and sword. The inscription in ancient Greek reads: «Μία κλίνη κενὴ φέρεται ἐστρωμένη τῶν ἀφανῶν ἡρώων» — «One empty bier is laid out for the unknown heroes.» This is a quote from the tragedy of Thucydides, which means: «There is one empty bed, made up for the unknown heroes.»
Around the tomb are carved the names of all the places where Greece fought in the 20th century: from the Balkan Wars to World War II, from the Korean War to the Cyprus campaign. The meaning of this place is that here rest the remains of all soldiers whose bodies could not be found or identified.
The Changing of the Guard at the Greek Parliament
And now — the reason spectators stand here with phones outstretched. The Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is not a duty, it is a performance worthy of a surrealist choreographer.
Who are the Evzones?
The guard is provided by soldiers of the Presidential Guard — the Evzones (from Greek, meaning «well-girded»). This is an elite unit, selected by height — a minimum of 187 centimeters — and physical condition. Their uniform is a true artifact.
• Foustanella — a pleated skirt with 400 folds. The number is not accidental: for exactly 400 years, Greece was under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. Each fold is a symbol of one year of oppression.
• Fareon — a red fez with a long black tassel, symbolizing the blood shed for freedom.
• Tsarouchi — leather boots with huge pom-poms on the toes. Initially, this was a practical element: blades for self-defense were sewn into the pom-poms, or they were soaked in oil for better grip on stone. Today, the weight of each boot reaches three kilograms.
• Gileya — a white woolen shirt and a vest with traditional embroidery.
The Choreography of the Changing Ceremony
The ceremony takes place every hour around the clock, in summer — every half hour, but the most spectacular and solemn version is the Sunday changing of the guard at 11:00 AM with the participation of a military band. Watch the movements carefully. They resemble a slow, crane-like dance. The soldiers carry up to forty kilograms of equipment on their belts, yet move with absolute control.
The cycle of movements looks like this. First, a slow swing of the leg: the leg rises horizontally to 90 degrees, the toe is pointed. Then, a pause — hovering in the air for a couple of seconds. And finally, a strike of the heel on the ground. This loud, cracking sound echoes across the entire square. It is meant to show that Greece stands firm. Simultaneously, the soldiers make circular motions with their hands, crossed over their chests — this symbolizes the bond with the homeland and ancient rhythms.
They do not look at each other. They do not smile. Their faces are masks of absolute calm. The old guard freezes at the tomb, while the relieving guard marches with a long, incredibly theatrical step almost a meter in length.
What Tourists Should Know
Do not stand directly in front of the soldiers. There is a marked line — do not step beyond it. You can photograph and film, but without flash. Do not laugh or wave your hands near them. This is not a performance for entertainment; it is a military ritual, a veneration of the fallen. The soldiers are trained to ignore provocations, but respect for the site is mandatory.
If you look closely at their fingers, you may notice a slight tremor. Knowing that they tire from standing in 40-degree heat or under rain absolutely motionless, they sometimes lose sensation in their extremities, but discipline holds them like stone.
For a traveler, visiting this part of Athens offers the opportunity to become acquainted, in a short time, with several layers of national culture at once: Neoclassical architecture, the political history of the 19th–20th centuries, military traditions, and modern ceremonial. Unlike the ancient ruins of the Acropolis, these monuments are in constant, living use — the parliament is working, the museum receives visitors, and the guard changes every hour. This makes Syntagma Square not just a tourist attraction, but a functioning center of Greek statehood.
