Imagine a city frozen in the 14th century. Siena was not built for tourists — it was born for war with Florence and for prayer. This austere, majestic spirit is felt everywhere here. Its streets are stone arteries through which the blood of the medieval contrade (districts) still pulsates, and the main square, Piazza del Campo, is a giant shell into which all the life of the city flows.
History of Siena
At the end of the 6th century BC, the Etruscans settled on the three hills of what would become Tuscany. But the true story begins with a legend: the city was founded by Senius, the son of Remus (the very same, brother of Romulus), who fled here from his uncle, the she-wolf. Thus, Siena acquired a Roman lineage but went its own way.
In the 12th century, Siena became a free commune, and later a powerful republic. Its main enemy and competitor became Florence. These two cities were antipodes: Florence — sober calculation and Renaissance clarity; Siena — aristocratic pride and mystical Gothic.
In 1260, at the Battle of Montaperti, the Sienese defeated the Florentines. Legend has it that before the battle, the city was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the victory was attributed to Her intercession. From that moment on, the Madonna became the undisputed ruler and symbol of Siena. The city experienced its "Golden Age" under the government of the Council of Nine (1287–1355) — a government of wealthy merchants and bankers that created the "Good Government," celebrated in famous frescoes.
But in 1348, the "Black Death" arrived, wiping out more than half the population. Ambitious plans to build a "New Cathedral" that would overshadow St. Peter`s Basilica were forever abandoned — the unfinished nave is still visible today as a monument to a shattered dream. In 1555, after a heroic year-long siege, Siena surrendered to the armies of Emperor Charles V and was annexed to the Florentine Duchy of the Medici. Political independence vanished, but its unique medieval appearance was preserved for centuries.
Architectural Style of Siena
The architecture of Siena is austere and solemn Gothic, lacking the lightness of French cathedrals. It is the "Sienese style» recognizable, brick-built, severe, and incredibly cohesive.
Centuries Soldered by Brick: The historic center of Siena is a unified architectural ensemble, rare in Europe. There are almost no Renaissance or Baroque intrusions here. The city is frozen in its 14th- and 15th-century appearance. The authorities strictly ensured this, prescribing that patrician families build their palaces in a uniform style so that the main square wouldn`t become an exhibition of vanity.
Terracotta Earth and White Stone: Siena is composed of two materials — warm reddish-brown brick and cool grey-white stone (travertine). The facades of the palazzi are generally massive and restrained, but enlivened by elegant mullioned windows (trifore – with three arched openings) and crenellated crowning. The black and white heraldic shields of the Balzana, symbolizing the horses of the city`s founders, can be seen everywhere.
A Shell in the Heart of the City: The main square, Piazza del Campo, is an urban planning masterpiece. The place where the three hills once converged and rainwater flowed down was paved with herringbone brick in 1333, divided into nine sectors by white stone strips — in memory of the wise Government of the Nine. It is neither rectangular nor round — it is alive, like the valve of a shell, naturally sloping down towards the center where the Palazzo Pubblico stands.
Siena`s Landmarks
Piazza del Campo and Palazzo Pubblico
The heart of Siena beats here. Piazza del Campo is not just a square; it is the city`s living room, an open-air theater, and a racetrack all at once. Twice a year, on July 2nd and August 16th, it transforms into the arena for the famous Palio — a mad, ancient, and thrilling bareback horse race in which 10 of the city`s 17 contrade compete.
Towering over the square is the Palazzo Pubblico (Public Palace), built between 1297 and 1310 for the Council of Nine. Its slightly concave facade of travertine and brick, crowned with battlements, is a symbol of the secular power that ruled wisely and firmly.
Adjacent to the palace is the Torre del Mangia (Tower of the Eater) — one of the tallest medieval towers in Italy (102 meters). It got its nickname from the first bell-ringer, a spendthrift who "ate up" all his earnings. If you conquer the 400 steps, the view from the top over the city and the surrounding countryside is breathtaking. At the base of the tower stands the elegant Cappella di Piazza, built in gratitude for the end of the 1348 plague.
Inside the Palazzo Pubblico is the Museo Civico (Civic Museum). It houses the greatest masterpieces of the Sienese school. In the Sala del Mappamondo (Map Room) is Simone Martini`s monumental "Maestà" (1315), where the Madonna appears not just as the Queen of Heaven, but as the protectress of the Sienese Republic. But the true treasure is the Sala della Pace (Hall of Peace) with Ambrogio Lorenzetti`s frescoes "The Allegory of Good and Bad Government" (1338–1339). This is a secular cycle, unique for medieval art, vividly showing the outcomes of wise rule (prosperity) and tyranny (ruin).
On the opposite side of the square is the Fonte Gaia (Fountain of Joy). What we see today is a 19th-century copy. The original sculptures by Jacopo della Quercia (1409–1419) are preserved in a museum, but even the copy gives an idea of the beauty of this Renaissance altar from which water flows.
The Cathedral (Duomo di Siena)
The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is a white marble fantasy shining above a sea of terracotta roofs. It was built between the 12th and 14th centuries, and its facade, adorned with statues by Giovanni Pisano, is a masterpiece of Italian Gothic.
Inside, the grandeur intensifies. Your eyes dart between the black and white striped columns (the symbolic colors of Siena), the star-studded vaults, and the mosaic pavement, upon which the finest artists worked for over a century. Treasures are kept here: the pulpit by Nicola Pisano (1268), Donatello`s statue of St. John the Baptist, and the main altarpiece, the "Maestà" by Duccio di Buoninsegna. Next to the cathedral is the entrance to the Piccolomini Library (1495), its walls entirely covered with ten frescoes by Pinturicchio, narrating the life of Pope Pius II.
The cathedral also has its "ghost" — the walls of the unfinished nave of the Nuovo Duomo. After their victories, the Sienese wanted to expand the cathedral so much that it would become the largest in Christendom. But the plague of 1348 and a structural collapse put an end to these plans. Today, this nave houses a museum.
Churches and Palaces of Siena
Basilica of San Domenico (Basilica di San Domenico) — a stark, massive brick structure on a hill, which houses the city`s greatest relic — the head of St. Catherine of Siena (more precisely, her remains). Here you can also see the chapel dedicated to the saint, with frescoes by Sodoma.
Santuario di Santa Caterina (Casa di Santa Caterina) — a house-museum turned sanctuary on the spot where St. Catherine lived. Everything here breathes the spirit of medieval mysticism.
Santa Maria della Scala (Hospital) — located opposite the cathedral. One of the oldest hospitals in Europe (9th century), which once welcomed pilgrims along the Via Francigena. Today it is a vast museum complex with frescoes, archaeological excavations, and underground areas.
Palazzo Salimbeni and Piazza Salimbeni are located here, the oldest existing bank in the world, the Monte dei Paschi di Siena, founded in 1472.
What`s Unusual about Siena
The Contrade. The city is divided into 17 districts or contrade, each with its own name (Caterpillar, Tower, Shell, Dragon...), its own museum, church, fountain, and coat of arms. The residents of a contrada are one big family, and belonging to it is more important than anything else. The rivalry between them is the main passion of the Sienese, which reaches its peak during the Palio.
Bareback Horse Races (The Palio). Don`t try to find logic in this sport. Ten riders (often hired for vast sums) gallop at full speed around the medieval brick square. Victory is a triumph for the entire contrada for next year. Defeat is a disgrace. It all lasts only 90 seconds, but they prepare for this event all year round.
Color and Light in Siena. The painters of the Sienese school did not paint like the Florentines. They were less interested in perspective and anatomy than in line, color, and gold. This reflects the influence of Byzantium and Gothic art, giving Sienese art a special, mystical beauty.
Siena is a unique example of a medieval city-state that has managed to preserve its authentic appearance for almost seven centuries. Its historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, represents a cohesive architectural ensemble where every element is subordinate to the strict urban planning principles from the era of the Sienese Republic`s golden age.
