Between the blue expanse of the Maloye More (Little Sea) of Lake Baikal and the majestic slopes of the Primorsky Range lies a surprising land where Siberia reveals itself in a completely unexpected light. This is the Tazheran Steppe—a unique natural area where geological and natural attractions are concentrated in a relatively small area.
This is not just a plain with grass. It is a place of power, an ancient land holding historical secrets. If you are driving from Irkutsk to Olkhon Island, you will inevitably pass through it, but to truly get to know it, you need to turn off the main road.
How was the Tazheran Steppe formed?
Why did a dry, almost treeless steppe suddenly appear among the taiga forests and Baikal shores? There are two main reasons:
An Ancient Ocean Floor: Approximately 500-600 million years ago, the waters of an ancient paleo-ocean washed over this area. Subsequently, powerful tectonic forces uplifted these layers, creating dry land. Therefore, the foundation of Tazheran is ancient Precambrian marbles, limestones, and dolomites. They give the area its unique appearance: light, sun-bleached cliffs, caves, and whimsical weathering formations.
The "Rain Shadow" of the Primorsky Range: Moist air masses from the west are forced to overcome the high Primorsky Range before reaching Tazheran. As the air rises and cools, it releases rain on the western slopes. By the time it moves east, towards Baikal and the steppe, the air is already dry. This creates a special dry, sharply continental microclimate with little precipitation. Here, it rains 2-3 times less than in neighboring areas. This is why the taiga has receded here, giving way to steppe vegetation that thrives in drought conditions.
The geological composition of Tazheran is a true natural museum. In addition to snow-white and pinkish marble, you can find here:
• Apatites and phlogopite (a type of mica) – mined here in Soviet times.
• Lapis Lazuli – the semi-precious stone mined here since ancient times for jewelry and decoration.
• Graphite and quartz.
• And even rare blue diopside.
Treasures of Tazheran: What to See and Where to Go
Here are the main "gems" of the steppe that you should not miss. It is best to explore them with your own transport (a 4WD vehicle is an advantage, but many places are accessible by a regular car).
1. Aya Bay and Heart Lake
What it is: The most famous and picturesque bay of the Maloye More. The name "Aya" comes from the Evenki word for "beautiful," and it lives up to its name completely. It is a perfect sandy arc with turquoise water, framed by pine trees. Near the bay, just 200 meters from the Baikal shore, is a small but very scenic Heart Lake, which indeed resembles a human heart in shape.
What to do: Have a picnic on the shore, swim in Baikal (the water here warms up better in summer than in many other places), take classic Baikal photos, and be sure to walk the path around Heart Lake. This is a must-do.
2. Tazheran Caves
This is a whole network of underground cavities, the most famous of which is Dream Cave (Peshchera Mechta).
What it is: One of the largest and most accessible caves for unprepared tourists in the Baikal region. Its entrance is a huge grotto. Inside, you will find maze-like passages, large halls (e.g., Globus Hall), whimsical stalactites and stalagmites, and ice crystals that do not melt even in summer.
Important: For visiting the cave, you must have a good flashlight for each person, spare batteries, and comfortable non-slip shoes. It`s not advisable to go far without a guide—it`s easy to get lost. There are other caves nearby: Tontinskaya, Malaya Baidinskaya, and Bolshaya Baidinskaya, but they require more experience and equipment.
3. Mount Ekhe-Yord ("Mother Stone") and the Sanctuary
What it is: A low mountain highly revered by the local Buryat population. Next to it is a huge solitary boulder—the Ekhe-Yord sanctuary. It is considered a place of power where rites and rituals have been held since time immemorial. Once a year, a major ethnic festival, the Yordyn Games, takes place here.
What to do: Climb to the top of the mountain (it`s not difficult), offering a panoramic view of the entire Tazheran Steppe, the delta of the Anga River, and Baikal. Walk around the sacred stone clockwise, leaving an offering for the spirits of the place (usually coins, sweets, or ribbons on trees). Feel the incredible energy of this ancient place.
4. Sagan-Zaba Cliff ("White Cliff")
What it is: One of the most important archaeological sites in all of Northern Asia. It is a massive white marble cliff on which rock paintings (petroglyphs) over 2000 years old have been preserved.
What to see: Figures of shamans with raised hands, running deer, swans, and bulls are carved on the smooth surface of the rock. These drawings are a message from the depths of time, telling about the beliefs and life of ancient people. Unfortunately, some of the petroglyphs have been damaged by vandals, but what remains is unforgettable. The view of Baikal from here is also fantastic.
5. "Pereval" Marble Quarry
What it is: An abandoned quarry where pink and white marble was mined in the mid-20th century. Now this place resembles an alien landscape: a deep pit, vertical walls of multi-colored marble, piles of stone blocks.
What to do: This is a paradise for photographers. The play of light on the marble cuts creates incredible scenes. You can find pieces of marble and mica as souvenirs. Be careful near the edges of the cliffs
6. "Stolovaya" Hill (Table Hill)
What it is: A solitary hill with an absolutely flat top, clearly visible from many points in the steppe. It is believed that rituals were also held on its summit in ancient times.
What to do: Take a short trek to the summit. The ascent takes about 20-30 minutes, and the reward is a 360-degree view: the endless steppe, the winding Anga River, the blue expanse of Baikal, and the peaks of the Primorsky Range.
Dedicate a full day to the Tazheran Steppe. Do not rush through it on your way to Olkhon. Turn off the highway, feel its silent expanse. This is an interesting journey into the very heart of the Baikal land.
