Zhongshan Park is a place where you can forget the noise of the big city and immerse yourself in the atmosphere of old Beijing. There are no crowds of tourists who usually rush to the main palaces. Instead — century-old trees, shady alleys, ancient pavilions, and, of course, the famous goldfish, for which connoisseurs and photographers come here.
Pavilions and Attractions of Zhongshan Park
The park is small but rich. It is pleasant to simply stroll here, examining the details.
Siyixuan Pavilion is one of the most interesting structures in the park. Originally it was the Temple of Guandi, built during the time of the Altar of Earth and Grain, and in 1919 rebuilt and given a name that means "suitable for all four seasons." In front of the pavilion lies the Huiyue Stone — a relic from the Old Summer Palace. They say that at night, moonlight passing through the holes in the stone projects whimsical lunar shadows onto the ground. Emperor Qianlong gave the stone this name — "Huiyue," which means "returning moon."
Next to the pavilion spread ponds with lotuses and water lilies. It is especially beautiful here in late summer and early autumn, when the water is covered with green leaves, and pink and white buds peek through them.
Zhongshan Park is generally famous for its quietness: even at the height of the season, you can find a secluded bench in the shade of an old tree and simply listen to the birds.
Goldfish: the Living Treasure of Zhongshan Park
The main pride of Zhongshan Park is its goldfish. The tradition of breeding them here goes back more than a hundred years. As early as 1915, the first public "exhibition point" of goldfish in China was created in the park, continuing the traditions of the imperial court.
How These Fish Were Bred
Goldfish descend from the ordinary silver crucian carp. A thousand years ago in China, people noticed that sometimes individuals with a reddish or golden coloration were born. They began to select and crossbreed them, gradually developing increasingly bizarre forms. Chinese emperors kept goldfish in porcelain vases decorated with lotuses and watched them from above — that is why many breeds have a wide body and lush fins that look best when viewed from above.
In Zhongshan Park, this tradition has been preserved. For many years, the "Goldfish" dynasty worked here — the Xu family, who back in the Qing era were invited to the court to breed fish for the imperial garden. Their descendants continued to care for the fish in Zhongshan Park until the end of the 20th century. Thanks to them, the park became not just a place for walks, but a living museum of Chinese goldfish breeding.
What Fish Can Be Seen in Zhongshan Park
Today in Zhongshan Park you can see dozens of breeds of goldfish. Among them especially stand out:
Wen — the oldest breeds. They have a full body and wide, elegant tail fins. The red swallow looks like a flame, and the blue veiltail is dark as ink. When they swim, their fins flutter like skirts, exuding classic Eastern charm.
Dragon Eye — a breed known since the Ming Dynasty. Their bulging eyes resemble dragon eyes — the embodiment of the Chinese romantic imagination about dragons. The purple-blue dragon eye with a butterfly tail unfolds its fins like butterfly wings; the black dragon eye is completely ink-colored, calm and majestic; the magpie and calico with a pattern are spotted and bright, their patterns swirl in the water.
Telescopes — fish with large eyes, up to 5 cm. If the pupils are directed upward, this is the "stargazer" — it has no dorsal fin, and the eyes have large leather pouches under them, which gives the head a funny appearance.
Pearl — a fish with large convex scales, on which pearlescent specks shine. This breed was developed in China in 1725 and for a long time was considered a national treasure, with export abroad prohibited.
Red Cap — silver fish with a red spot on the head that looks like a cap.
Also here you can see pompons — fish with fluffy growths on the head, lionheads — with massive growths covering the entire head, and veiltails — with long, flowing tails that can be several times longer than the body.
Breeds developed in Beijing are especially valued, for example the "Goose-Red-Headed" — a white fish with a bright red head, which is considered the highest grade of Beijing goldfish.
Why Tourists Come to Zhongshan Park After Sunset
Many visitors specifically plan their visit to Zhongshan Park for the evening time. During the day, especially in sunny weather, the water surface reflects light, and it can be difficult to examine the fish in detail. Glass or water glares, and shadows interfere with seeing the fins and patterns.
After sunset, everything changes. When it gets dark, the illumination turns on — and the aquariums are literally transformed. Light penetrates through the water, and the fish become visible much better than during the day. Their translucent fins and tails, which during the day seemed just light spots, begin to glow like thin fabric. Bright colors — red, gold, black, spotted — become richer and more contrasting against the illuminated water.
This looks especially impressive in the traditional large wooden vats used to keep goldfish according to old Beijing tradition. Inside such vats, special underwater lamps are installed, and the fish swim in soft light, while reflections on the water create the sensation that they are floating in the air. It is for this spectacle that photographers and simply lovers of beautiful views come here.
In the evening, the park becomes quieter, there are fewer people, and you can leisurely walk around all the aquariums, examining each fish. This is the ideal time for those who want not just to "see," but to truly examine the amazing creatures for which in China this breed was bred and perfected for centuries.
What Else Worth Knowing About Zhongshan Park
Besides the goldfish, Zhongshan Park is interesting for its old trees — ginkgo, pines, plane trees. In autumn it is especially beautiful here, when the ginkgo leaves turn golden. In spring, the park is famous for tulips, which are planted in large quantities, and then far more visitors come here than usual.
But even on the calmest days, Zhongshan Park remains a place where the spirit of old Beijing is felt — unhurried, cozy, with its centuries-old traditions and love for small living treasures.
