If you enter the Old Town through the Sea Gate, whose mighty towers rise directly to the north, you will almost immediately find yourself in the liveliest and most spacious square of the medieval quarter — Hippocrates Square. Local residents still sometimes call it the "burnt square" — a grim reminder of the severe fire in the 1920s that destroyed the wooden trading rows but, fortunately, spared the stone architecture.
Today, Hippocrates Square is one of the most photogenic and welcoming locations in Rhodes:
Socrates Street: if you turn your back to the sea, then on the western side of the square begins Socrates Street. This is the main commercial artery of the Old Town, extending like a colorful ribbon of souvenir shops deep into the quarter.
Aristotelous Street: on the eastern side, Aristotelous Street will lead you to other architectural monuments.
Kastellania Building: immediately pay attention to the southeastern corner of the square. There you will find the monumental rectangular building of Kastellania. This is one of the few secular monuments from the time of the Knights Hospitaller. Built in 1507, it served as a court and Commercial Tribunal (something like an exchange and court for merchants).
Pay attention to its façade with arched windows and an elegant external staircase without railings — this is an excellent natural stage for a photo with the square as a backdrop. During the Ottoman Empire, a mosque was located here, and under the Italians, a university. Now inside the building are the city library and archive, but even just standing by its walls is useful: you seem to touch the business life of the island from 500 years ago.
In the center of the square, where all roads converge, is the main "meeting place" — the Sindrivani Fountain. Do not look here for Greek severity or knightly asceticism. This fountain was created during the Italian period (when the Italians ruled the island at the beginning of the 20th century) and represents a curious, elegant mix of styles.
It is a round basin from which rises a column decorated with turquoise ceramic tiles and crowned with a small "turret" with elements of Byzantine and Ottoman decor. The structure is topped with a figurine of an owl — a symbol of wisdom (a hint at Hippocrates). Streams of water flow from metal pipes, creating a pleasant coolness. This is the perfect place to take a break from the heat.
During the day, Hippocrates Square may seem a bit bustling due to the flows of tourists. But the real magic happens at sunset.
The square and the narrow alley-"threads" adjacent to it (there are indeed many of them, and they converge toward the fountain like a web) turn into one large open-air restaurant terrace. The buildings around the square — mostly 19th-century constructions — are occupied by tavernas and restaurants.
Menu: here they serve classic Greek cuisine: souvlaki, moussaka, fresh seafood, horiatiki salad (Greek salad) and, of course, ouzo or local wine.
Hustlers: Be prepared that restaurant staff will actively invite you to a table, offering the best place and discounts. This is part of the local flavor. Do not hesitate to look at the menu before sitting down and compare prices.
Atmosphere: sit at a table in the square itself to enjoy the Venetian architecture, the view of the Kastellania lantern and the continuous "parade" of people. The air is filled with the smells of grilled meat, hookah smoke and the sounds of live music.
Hippocrates Square is the ideal starting point for a walk through the Old Town. Once you find it, you can always orient yourself to where the exit to the sea is (the Sea Gate). When choosing a restaurant, pay attention to the establishments in the side streets (for example, on Sofokleous Street): there prices are often more affordable than in the square itself, and the atmosphere is no less authentic.