Nea Kameni (translated from Greek as "New Burnt") is not just a sightseeing attraction of Santorini, but the youngest piece of land in the entire Aegean Sea. It emerged from the sea depths in historical times as a result of a series of underwater eruptions. Excursion boats with tourists from Santorini sail here every day.
But to understand Nea Kameni, we need to take a step back. About 3,600 years ago, one of the largest volcanic eruptions in human history occurred on Santorini. It destroyed the Minoan settlements, formed a giant caldera (a flooded crater), and possibly gave rise to the legend of Atlantis. After this cataclysm, the volcano did not calm down but continued to breathe.
The first documented appearance of a new island in the Santorini caldera dates back to 46-47 AD – the Roman historian Cassius Dio recorded that in that year, a small, previously unknown islet appeared near the island of Thera. However, the true "birthday" of Nea Kameni is 1707, when, after a series of underwater tremors, new land began to rise from the sea right before the eyes of the astonished local residents.
Since then, the volcano has erupted several times: powerful eruptions occurred in 1866-1870, 1925-1928, and 1939-1941. The last burst of activity happened in 1950, when a small lava mass flowed from the crater. Today, Nea Kameni is in a state of rest, but scientists closely monitor every one of its breaths.
What Nea Kameni is like today
The island itself is an almost perfect circle about 2 kilometres in diameter. Its landscape resembles another planet or a giant construction site: there is no greenery, no familiar white houses. The entire surface consists of black, reddish, and grey solidified lava, pumice, and volcanic ash. Here and there, wisps of sulphurous steam rise from cracks – the volcano reminding us that it is not asleep, but merely resting.
The central place on the island is occupied by several craters. The most famous of the active craters is named "Georgios" (Jorgo) – the locals named it in honour of King George I of Greece, because the volcano showed activity the very next day after the monarch visited Santorini.
An interesting detail: the thin layer of soil that has nevertheless managed to form on the island is covered in summer with a reddish carpet of succulents – some of the few living creatures capable of surviving in such extreme conditions.
How to get to the volcano: a boat excursion
Visiting Nea Kameni is a classic Santorini holiday experience. Every day, small boats depart from the Old Port of Fira. Many companies also offer a bus transfer from your hotel to the port.
The standard excursion to the Nea Kameni volcano from Santorini lasts about three hours and is usually offered twice a day: in the morning at 11:00 and in the afternoon at 14:30.
The excursion programme consists of four stages.
The first stage is the crossing to the volcano. You depart from the Old Port of Fira, and the boat trip to the island of Nea Kameni takes only 15-20 minutes.
The second stage is a walk on the volcano. You disembark on the island and have about one and a half hours to climb up to the crater. The path is rocky and goes uphill, but the ascent is accessible to people with average physical fitness.
The third stage is swimming in the hot springs. You cross to the neighboring island of Palea Kameni, to Agios Nikolaos Bay. The boat drops anchor, and anyone who wishes jumps into the water. You need to swim towards the yellow-green patches – those are the thermal waters. About half an hour is allotted for this stage.
The fourth stage is the return. You sail back to the Old Port of Fira, the journey takes about 20 minutes.
What you will see during the excursion to the Nea Kameni volcano
The climb to the crater is the central part of the experience. The path winds through solidified rivers of lava, the pumice crunching underfoot like broken glass. Along the way, the guide (usually a guide on the boat accompanies the group) tells the story of the eruptions and shows the multi-coloured layers of rock: black – basalt, red – iron, white – pumice.
From the top of the crater, an incredible view opens up of the entire Santorini caldera, as if on the palm of your hand. You will see the sheer cliffs rising above the white towns of Fira, Imerovigli, and Oia. This is that rare case where there are almost no people at the attraction itself, yet you can see thousands of them on the opposite shore.
The smoking fumaroles are another feature of this place. You will smell the sulphur before you see the source. Hot jets of steam burst from cracks and crevices – the breath of the earth. In some places, the rock is so hot that it is better not to touch it.
After the descent and the crossing, it is time for the hot springs. The water in Palea Kameni Bay is warmed by underground waters to 30-35 degrees Celsius and has a characteristic yellow-olive colour due to its high sulphur and iron content.
Important warning: this water will definitely dye light-coloured swimsuits in yellow-brown shades, so take an old or dark-coloured one.
Practical tips for travellers
To ensure that the trip to the Nea Kameni volcano is remembered only with pleasant emotions, keep a few points in mind.
• Footwear. You will walk up the mountain on sharp, uneven volcanic rock. Flip-flops and light sandals are not suitable. You need closed-toe trainers or shoes with a thick sole.
• Water and sun protection. There are no trees, no shade, and no kiosks on the island. Take a bottle of water per person, a hat, and sunscreen.
• Entrance fee. Visiting the volcano is paid. An adult ticket costs about 5 euros, payment is in cash only on site.
• A scarf or windbreaker. It can be windy on the boat, especially on the way back.
• For swimming. Take a towel, a swimsuit (not white or light-coloured) and, ideally, special shoes for the rocks – the bottom in the hot springs is very slippery and rocky.
How to get to the port. The Old Port of Fira is located down below the cliff. The easiest way to get down is by cable car. The cheapest, but tiring way, is on foot along the legendary staircase of 587 steps (the very one that donkeys once used). The most exotic way is to descend on a mule.
The Nea Kameni volcano is not a beach holiday, it is an adventure. You will not lie here with a book on a sunbed, but you will get a unique opportunity to walk on a breathing crater, see the island from a completely different angle, and photograph panoramas that cannot be found on the usual tourist trails.
