The Charyn Canyon is one of the largest and most impressive canyons in Central Asia. Its total length is approximately 154 kilometers. It is a giant crack in the Earth`s crust, carved by the Charyn River through layers of sedimentary rock over millions of years. The canyon`s depth in places reaches 300 meters, while its width varies from several tens of meters to nearly a kilometer.
However, it is important to understand: the famous "Valley of Castles" is not the Charyn Canyon itself, but its side branch. It begins approximately two kilometers from the main bed of the Charyn River. This is where all tourists head after descending to the bottom at the visitor center. The Charyn River is the main goal of the route, its final destination, worth walking all two kilometers along the bottom of the gorge for.
The Charyn River: A Reward at the End of the Trail
When you, having passed through the narrowing walls, having passed the stone "gate" formed by two fallen stone giants, and having enjoyed the views of the Castles, finally emerge to the river — the first feeling is always the same: here it is, the heart of the canyon.
The Charyn River in this place is not a wide and calm lowland river. It is a fast, turbulent mountain river that has carved its way through the rock layers. Its waters have a characteristic turquoise-green hue — a color given to them by minerals washed out of the rocks. The water is cold even on the hottest summer day: it originates high in the mountains, and summer temperatures do not have time to warm it to a comfortable temperature.
The riverbanks in this place form a natural amphitheater. On both sides, sheer walls rise, and here, right by the water, the main geological contrast of the canyon is especially visible: red sandstones and dark, almost black basalts meet at the water`s edge. From below, from the shore, this contrast looks different than from above: you stand right on the boundary of two worlds, at the place where, millions of years ago, different geological epochs collided.
The Relict Ash: A Living Legend of the Canyon
Along the banks of the Charyn River, trees grow. But these are not ordinary trees — they are the relict Sogdian ash (Fraxinus sogdiana). This unique plant grew on the planet as far back as 25 million years ago, during an era when a humid subtropical climate prevailed here, and the ancestors of modern mammals roamed the land.
Today, along the Charyn River, stretches a relict grove, which is one of the last natural habitats of the Sogdian ash in the world. The trees here reach an age of 50 to 150 years — for a human, this is several generations, but for such an ancient species, it is merely a moment. Some specimens are striking in their size: their trunks reach half a meter in diameter, and their crowns rise to a height of 15–20 meters.
The Sogdian ash is a relatively low-growing but very picturesque tree with a dense, spreading crown. Its leaves — compound, pinnate, bright green — create dense shade that becomes a true salvation on a scorching canyon day. Many tourists stop for a rest precisely in the shade of these ancient trees, spreading blankets right by the water. And this is the right choice: the temperature in the shade of the ash tree can be 5–7 degrees lower than in the open sun.
The trees grow in a narrow but dense strip along the water, forming a natural green corridor — a true oasis in the stone kingdom. Their roots strengthen the banks, and their presence creates a microclimate: it is more humid, cooler, and cozier here than anywhere else in the canyon. The grove stretches along the river for several hundred meters, and within it, you can find not only ash trees but also individual sea buckthorn bushes, willows, and other moisture-loving plants that have found their last refuge here.
The fact that this forest has survived here to the present day is itself a miracle. Millions of years ago, when the climate in this region became arid, the Sogdian ash could not survive in open spaces. It was saved only by the fact that it "retreated" to the most humid places — into gorges, along riverbanks, where water does not dry up even in the driest years. Here, on the banks of the Charyn, it found its last natural range. Scientists consider this grove a relict of the Tertiary period — a living testimony to the era when Central Asia was covered with dense forests.
It is especially beautiful here in early autumn, when the ash leaves turn golden-yellow. Against the backdrop of red and black rocks, turquoise water, and golden tree canopies, the canyon looks utterly surreal — like a film set for a movie about lost worlds. And it is here, in the shade of the relict ashes, that many tourists take their best photographs.
The Return: Two Ways
After resting by the river, refilling water bottles, taking photographs, and finding shelter in the shade of the relict ash trees, tourists begin their journey back. And here there are two options:
1. On foot — retracing your steps
Many walk back. It is the same two kilometers, but in the opposite direction. Now the castles, the passage between the two giant stones, and the gradually widening gorge appear before you from another perspective. The main challenge is the climb back to the staircase: after all, two kilometers uphill, especially after a walk in the heat, require strength. But this is also part of the adventure — you walk slowly, stop, and take another look at what you passed quickly on the way to the river.
2. By car — along the canyon floor
For those who are tired or simply want to save their strength, there is a second option. Special vehicles operate along the canyon floor, picking up tourists right at the river and driving them back to the staircase. This is not just transportation — it is an attraction in itself. The car barely squeezes through the narrow passage between the two fallen stones, and passengers can literally touch the rocks by sticking their hand out of the window. This option is especially popular with families with children and elderly visitors, but younger tourists often choose it too, either to save their last strength for exploring the northern route or simply to end the day in comfort.
The Charyn River is not just a geographical point. It is the logical conclusion of the journey along the canyon floor. Here, the gorge ends, and open space begins. Here, you see the canyon as it truly is: red and black cliffs, turquoise water, green relict trees. Here, you feel time — the millions of years it took for the water to carve this path.
