In the very heart of Old Delhi, on the legendary Chandni Chowk street, stands a majestic yellow-and-white building that was once the center of city power — the Delhi Town Hall. Today, it is more of a monument to a bygone era than a functioning institution, but its walls hold history, and the surrounding gardens and alleys preserve the atmosphere of Old Delhi.
The Town Hall is an ideal place for those who want to see the authentic, unvarnished face of the city and touch its layered history.
Architecture of the Town Hall: Yellow-and-White Gothic
The Delhi Town Hall is a two-story building of yellow brick with carved white stone trim. Its architecture is a striking example of Victorian and Edwardian styles brought to India by the British. The expressive facade with white pilasters, arches, and cornices, wide porticos on the sides — all this creates a majestic yet stern appearance typical of a nineteenth-century British administrative building. Behind the main facade lie two wings, and the total building area is nearly 14 thousand square meters. The building is listed as a heritage monument of the highest category.
Today, the Delhi Town Hall stands in neglect. After municipal services moved to a new building in 2012, it ceased to be used for its original purpose. The interior spaces are gradually deteriorating; there are no longer offices or assembly halls. The premises are sometimes used for secondary purposes such as storage or election commission work. The facade, however, is maintained in order — for example, it was renovated for the G20 summit.
But behind the outer gloss lies abandonment, and the visitor will see only a majestic shell. Local residents and traders regard the Town Hall more as a historical backdrop for the bustling street life.
History of the Delhi Town Hall
The history of this place spans several centuries. As early as the seventeenth century, there were a caravanserai and gardens laid out by order of Princess Jahanara, the beloved daughter of Emperor Shah Jahan. The French traveler Bernier compared this place to the Palais-Royal in Paris.
The current building appeared after the uprising of 1857. Originally, in 1863, it was built as the Lawrence Institute — a cultural center for the European community. It housed a library, reading room, museum, as well as assembly halls and even a ballroom. In 1866, the building was purchased by the city administration and became the Town Hall — the headquarters of the municipality for the next 145 years. Meetings were held here, important decisions were made, and in one of the halls, later called the Durbar Hall, ceremonial receptions were hosted.
Garden and Alley Behind the Delhi Town Hall: From Jahanara`s Gardens to Gandhi Park
The area around the Town Hall is no less interesting than the building itself. The rear part of the complex is a green oasis with a rich history. The garden by the Town Hall is one of the oldest in Delhi, existing here since the seventeenth century. Originally, these were gardens laid out by order of Princess Jahanara. The British redesigned them, surrounded them with a fence, planted palm trees, and named them Queens` Garden or Company Bagh.
Today, the garden is known as Mahatma Gandhi Park. It is a small but well-maintained park with shady trees. A long palm avenue leads from the Town Hall to the park — a truly atmospheric place where shady palms create a feeling of detachment from the bustle of Chandni Chowk. The avenue ends at a circular platform where a monument to Mahatma Gandhi stands on a high pedestal. The statue depicts Gandhi in his famous pose — in a dhoti, with a staff in his hand. On the pedestal are inscribed words in Hindi, Urdu, and English, calling to follow the ideals of freedom, non-violence, and self-reliance, as well as a depiction of the charkha spinning wheel.
Chantaghar and the Monument in Front of the Town Hall
In front of the main facade of the Town Hall, right on Chandni Chowk, there is a place called Chantaghar. Here, from 1870 to 1951, stood the 39-meter Gothic Northbrook Clock Tower, which became a symbol of the area. The tower collapsed in 1951 and was never restored. However, the name "Chantaghar" stuck to this place — it is how the center of the old market is designated. The area around Chantaghar, where the famous pool reflecting moonlight once stood and gave the entire street its name "Silver Square," is now a busy intersection.
As for the monument in front of the Town Hall facade, here too a change of eras occurred. In colonial times, a statue of Queen Victoria stood here. After India gained independence, it was replaced. Now, in front of the Town Hall stands a monument to Swami Shraddhananda — a prominent figure of the Arya Samaj movement, educator, and social reformer. This is no less symbolic a choice, signifying a break with the colonial past.
Around the Town Hall, the life of Old Delhi bustles — noisy, chaotic, but captivating. At the gates, you can see vendors selling bird feed, and on the steps — people resting in the shade. The building is surrounded by numerous small shops and stores, and in the alleys leading from Chandni Chowk deeper into the quarter, residential buildings are huddled.
This area, especially near the railway station, is one of the most densely populated and less affluent places in Delhi. Here you can see the everyday life of ordinary citizens, which forms a stark contrast with the monumentality of historical buildings. The area is overcrowded with people, there is much poverty here, but this is precisely what constitutes its authentic character. The Town Hall and its surroundings are a place where history collides with the reality of the modern metropolis in all its fullness.
