In the heart of Old Delhi, on Chandni Chowk street, stands Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib. This site is just a few minutes` walk from the magnificent Red Fort, the former residence of the Mughal emperors. Its proximity to this seat of power is no coincidence: it was from within the walls of the Red Fort that the order was issued in 1675, forever inscribing this place in Sikh history as a symbol of supreme martyrdom.
The Site of Supreme Martyrdom
The name of the shrine, "Sis Ganj," translates from Hindi and Punjabi as "the place of the severed head." And this is no metaphor. Here, on November 11, 1675, by order of the powerful Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, Guru Tegh Bahadur was beheaded. His crime? Refusal to convert to Islam and his intercession for Kashmiri Pandits who were being forcibly converted. The Guru chose death over betrayal of his faith and principles of humanity.
Legend has it that the body of the executed Guru was to be quartered and put on public display, but one of his devoted disciples, Lakhi Shah Vanjara, stole it under the cover of darkness. To protect the sacred remains from desecration and to cremate them with dignity, he set his own house on fire. Today, at the site of this self-sacrifice stands another holy shrine — Gurudwara Rakab Ganj Sahib.
The Guru`s head, however, was transported to Anandpur Sahib by another disciple, Bhai Jaita, where it was cremated by the son of Guru Tegh Bahadur, the future tenth Guru, Gobind Singh.
From Obscurity to Shrine: The History of Building Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib
The exact site of the execution remained known to only a few for a long time. In 1783, over a hundred years later, the Sikh military commander Baghel Singh entered Delhi with his army. Emperor Shah Alam II struck a deal, granting permission to build Sikh shrines at historic locations. However, Baghel Singh did not know exactly where the Guru had been beheaded — only that it had occurred somewhere near a mosque on Chandni Chowk.
A saving clue came from an elderly Muslim woman from the water-carrier caste. Her father had witnessed the execution and even cleaned the site afterwards. It was she who pointed to the wall of the mosque near which stood a wooden platform where the Guru had been sitting in his final moments. Part of this wall was dismantled, and at this spot a small shrine was erected — the future Sis Ganj Sahib.
But peace was short-lived. In the turbulent decades that followed, the site repeatedly changed hands, becoming alternately a mosque and a gurudwara. Disputes between communities reached the courts. It was only in 1930, by a decision of the Privy Council under British rule, that the matter was finally settled in favour of the Sikhs. The modern structure of the temple was then built.
Sacred Relics Inside Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib
Today, upon crossing the threshold of Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib, you can see with your own eyes the relics that preserve the memory of those tragic days:
The preserved trunk of the very tree under which Guru Tegh Bahadur accepted martyrdom. The well from which the Guru drew water for his ablutions while in confinement. The old police station building adjacent to the temple, where the Guru was held in captivity and his companions were tortured.
Across from the gurudwara is a museum named after the three faithful disciples of the Guru — Bhai Mati Das, Bhai Sati Das, and Bhai Dayal Das, who were also executed by Aurangzeb`s order.
Architecture of Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib
The temple building is a graceful example of architecture blending Sikh, Islamic, and Mughal motifs. Its sandstone walls, elegant lattice windows, and golden domes appear especially striking against the chaos of the old city. Inside, in the two-storey prayer hall with high ceilings and beneath the glow of crystal chandeliers, rests the holy book of the Sikhs — the Guru Granth Sahib.
As in any other gurudwara, there is a Langar here — a free community kitchen where all visitors are served simple, hearty vegetarian food, embodying the principle of equality. Every day, over 15,000 people visit this temple, coming not only to pray but also to partake in the communal meal.
A Unique Tradition
Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib holds a special place not only in the spiritual but also in the military history of India. Since 1979, the Sikh Regiment of the Indian Army has, during the Republic Day parade, saluted twice: first to this gurudwara, and only then to the President of the country. This is a unique case, underscoring the extraordinary significance of this site for Sikhs worldwide.
Visiting Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib is a must on any traveller`s itinerary who is interested in the history, culture, and spiritual heritage of India. Located on bustling Chandni Chowk, within walking distance of the Red Fort, this gurudwara offers a unique opportunity to witness the site of the tragic events of the 17th century, which proved to be a turning point in the history of Sikhism.
