Purana Qila, or the Old Fort, is located on Mathura Road near the Pragati Maidan exhibition center and the National Zoological Park of Delhi. It is one of the oldest forts in the Indian capital, serving as the inner citadel of the sixth city of Delhi — Din-Panah, founded in 1533 by the second Mughal Emperor Humayun.
Construction lasted five years, however in 1540 Humayun was overthrown by the Afghan ruler Sher Shah Suri, who renamed the fort Shergarh and added a number of new structures to the complex. In 1555 Humayun regained the fort, but his rule did not last long — the very next year he died tragically within its walls.
Legendary Connection with Indraprastha
Purana Qila occupies a special place not only in history but also in the mythology of India. Many researchers and local residents associate this place with the legendary city of Indraprastha — the capital of the Pandava kingdom, described in the ancient Indian epic "Mahabharata".
Archaeological excavations conducted on the fort`s territory have uncovered evidence of continuous settlement of this site, dating back to approximately 300 BCE. Until the early 20th century, the fort was called "Pandavon-Ka-Kila" — "Fort of the Pandavas". The British architect Edwin Lutyens, while designing New Delhi in the 1920s, specially aligned the central ceremonial artery of the city so that it would be oriented towards Purana Qila.
Architecture of Purana Qila
The fort has a rectangular shape, its walls, built of red sandstone, rise to a height of 18 meters and extend for nearly 1.5 kilometers. The fort is surrounded by a wide moat, which in the past was connected to the Yamuna River. Three gates are built into the walls:
• Bara-Darwaza (Great Gate) — the western gate, which is still used for visitor entry.
• Humayun Gate — the southern gate, which received its name either because it was built by Humayun, or because the tomb of Humayun is visible from it.
• Talaqi Gate (Forbidden Gate) — the northern gate, so named presumably because only the emperor, members of his family and the inhabitants of the harem could pass through them.
All gates are two-tiered sandstone structures, decorated with white and colored marble inlays, blue glazed tiles, carved balconies and small domes.
Surviving Structures Inside Purana Qila
Despite its impressive exterior, only a few historical structures have survived inside the fort:
Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque — built by Sher Shah Suri in 1541 and is an outstanding example of pre-Mughal architecture. This is a single-dome mosque, in which pointed horseshoe-shaped arches were widely used for the first time in the region. The prayer hall, measuring 51.2 by 14.9 meters, has five elegant mihrab arches in the western wall. An inscription on a marble slab reads: "As long as there are people on earth, let this building be visited, and people will be happy and joyful in it."
Sher Mandal — a two-tiered octagonal tower of red sandstone, built by Sher Shah. Originally conceived as an observatory, the tower was used by Humayun as a library after he regained the fort. Inside, traces of decorative plaster and stone shelves have been preserved, on which, presumably, the emperor`s books were kept. It was on the steep steps of this tower that on January 24, 1556, Humayun slipped while going for evening prayers and fell, sustaining injuries from which he died two days later.
Baoli — a stepwell that supplied the fort with water.
Hammam — a bathhouse that served as a place for rest and ablutions.
Archaeological Museum at Purana Qila
On the fort`s territory there is an Archaeological Museum, which displays finds from excavations conducted at Purana Qila. The collection includes pottery and artifacts from various periods — from the Painted Grey Ware culture (1000 BCE) to the eras of the Mauryas, Shungas, Kushans, Guptas, Rajputs, the Delhi Sultanate and the Mughals. Of particular interest is a clay elephant sculpture from the Mughal period.
Events at Purana Qila
Every day after sunset, a sound and light show is held on the fort`s territory, dedicated to the history of the seven cities of Delhi — from Indraprastha to New Delhi. The show is accompanied by lighting of the fort walls and narration about key historical events associated with this place.
Practical Information for Visitors
• The fort is located on Mathura Road, next to the National Zoological Park. The nearest metro station is Pragati Maidan, from which the fort is about a 10-minute walk.
• The fort is open for visitors daily from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM. The entrance fee for foreign tourists is 300 rupees, for Indian citizens — 30 rupees. Combined tickets are available, including visits to the fort, the lake and the museum.
• The best time to visit is early morning or late evening, when the heat subsides and there are fewer visitors. The winter months (October-March) are considered the most favorable for visiting.
• Boat rides have been resumed on the lake in the southern part of the fort after a ten-year hiatus. There are 20 boats available, the cost of a 20-minute ride is 125–150 rupees per person. The boat station is open from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM, entry is through the Talaqi Gate.
Purana Qila is a place where the legends of the Mahabharata intertwine with the real events of Mughal history, and the powerful red sandstone walls preserve the memory of the rises and falls of empires. Located in close proximity to other significant landmarks of Delhi — Humayun`s Tomb, the National Zoological Park and Sunder Garden — the fort is a must-see for anyone interested in the centuries-old history of the Indian capital.
