The Doge`s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) is the heart of the Venetian Republic and one of the most impressive buildings in the city. It stands in the eastern part of St. Mark`s Square, with its southern façade facing the lagoon and its western façade facing the Piazzetta, and it adjoins St. Mark`s Basilica, forming together with it the most recognizable architectural ensemble of Venice.
From the 9th century until the fall of the republic in 1797, the highest organs of power were located here: the residence of the doge, the assembly halls of the government, the courts, and the prison. Within these walls, decisions were made that determined the fate of Venice, and at times of all Europe.
Architecture and Appearance of the Doge`s Palace
The Doge`s Palace is the most striking example of so-called Venetian Gothic. Its main feature is a visual "inversion": according to the laws of architecture, the massive should stand below and the light above. Here everything is the opposite. The lower tier is an open arcade with slender columns, the second tier is an even lighter loggia with filigree stone carving resembling lace, and the third tier is a solid wall clad in a pink-and-white diamond pattern, with sparse Gothic windows. This "inverted" composition violates all canons, but it is precisely this that makes the palace unlike anything else.
The lower arcade consists of 36 columns with carved capitals. The second loggia repeats its rhythm but looks even more airy. The upper wall is pierced by large pointed windows; the central window on the southern façade is the so-called "Doge`s Window," from which the head of the republic watched the ceremonies on the Piazzetta. Above the corners of the building rise sculptural groups, and above the central window is the figure of the doge kneeling before the winged lion, the symbol of St. Mark.
History of the Construction of the Doge`s Palace
The first building of the palace was constructed in the 9th century, but it repeatedly burned and was rebuilt. The palace acquired its present appearance in the 14th–15th centuries. The main works were carried out in 1340–1419, when the southern and western façades, facing the lagoon and the Piazzetta, were erected. It was then that the three-tier composition took shape that is today considered a classic of Venetian Gothic.
In the 15th century, a ceremonial entrance — the Porta della Carta — was added to the palace, and an inner courtyard with arcades and the Loggetta Sansovino was built. In the 16th century, the palace suffered greatly from fires: in 1574 and 1577, fire destroyed a significant part of the interiors. The restoration was carried out under the direction of the architect Antonio da Ponte, and the interior halls were painted by Tintoretto, Veronese, Jacopo Bassano, and other masters. Since then, the palace has acquired the appearance we know today.
Interiors and Halls of the Doge`s Palace
The interior space of the palace is vast and multi-layered. Through the Porta della Carta, visitors enter the inner courtyard, from which the ceremonial staircase leads — the Staircase of the Giants (Scala dei Giganti), named after the two colossal statues of Mars and Neptune by Sansovino. It was on this staircase that the coronation of the doges took place.
The most significant halls of the Doge`s Palace:
The Hall of the Great Council (Sala del Maggior Consiglio) — the largest hall of the palace, about 54 meters long and 25 meters wide. Here sat the Great Council — the highest organ of the republic, which included all adult representatives of noble Venetian families. The ceiling of the hall is decorated with the famous painting by Tintoretto "Paradise" — one of the largest canvases in the world (about 22 meters wide). On the walls is a frieze with portraits of the doges; one place in the row is demonstratively left empty with an inscription about Doge Marino Faliero, executed for attempting a coup d`état.
• The Hall of the Council of Ten (Sala del Consiglio dei Dieci) — the room where the secret council sat, judging cases of high treason.
• The Hall of the Compass (Sala della Bussola) — here was the famous "lion`s mouth" — a box for anonymous denunciations.
• The Hall of the Senate (Sala del Senato) — the meeting place of the Venetian Senate, decorated with works by Tintoretto.
• The Hall of the Scrutinio (Sala dello Scrutinio) — where voting and vote counting took place.
• The Halls of the Council of Forty and other judicial premises.
The Bridge of Sighs and the Prison
One of the most famous parts of the complex is the Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri), spanning the narrow Rio di Palazzo canal. It connects the palace with the Piombi prison, built in the 16th century. Prisoners were led across the bridge from the court halls to their cells; through the small barred windows they saw Venice and the lagoon for the last time — hence the name "sighs." Today the bridge has become one of the most romantic symbols of the city, although its original meaning was tragic.
The Piombi prison (from the Italian "piombo" — lead, with which the roof was covered) consisted of two parts: the upper cells under the lead roof were unbearably hot in summer and cold in winter, the lower ones were damp and dark. In this prison, the famous adventurer Giacomo Casanova was held and escaped from it, as he himself described in detail in his memoirs.
Works of Art in the Doge`s Palace
The Doge`s Palace is not only a political center but also one of the largest art galleries in Venice. Its halls are decorated with works by:
• Tintoretto — "Paradise" in the Hall of the Great Council, "Venice, Queen of the Seas," and other canvases.
• Paolo Veronese — "The Triumph of Venice," "The Rape of Europa," ceiling paintings, and allegorical compositions.
• Jacopo Tintoretto and his workshop — numerous battle and allegorical scenes.
• Vittore Carpaccio — "The Lion of St. Mark" and other works.
• Giovanni Battista Tiepolo — decorative compositions in individual halls.
• Jacopo Sansovino — sculptures and architectural elements, including the Staircase of the Giants.
Particular attention deserves the ceiling of the Hall of the Great Council — a complex composition combining painting and carved gilded decoration.
Climbing the Campanile and Viewpoints
From the palace, one can pass over the Bridge of Sighs into the prison and see the cells from inside. Also, from the windows of the upper halls, views of the lagoon and the Piazzetta open up. A separate opportunity is to climb St. Mark`s Campanile (Campanile), which is located next to the palace but is not part of its complex; from it opens the best panorama of the square, the palace, and the lagoon.
Practical Information
• Address: Piazzetta San Marco, 1, Venezia.
• Getting there: vaporetto to the stop San Marco — Vallaresso or San Zaccaria; on foot from the Rialto Bridge or St. Mark`s Square.
• Opening hours: daily from 9:00 to 18:00 (last entry at 17:00). Changes are possible on holidays.
• Tickets: adult ticket — about 25 euros; reduced — about 13 euros. A combined ticket with the Correr Museums and the Archaeological Museum is valid. Children under 6 — free.
• Tips: come at opening (9:00) or after 15:00 to avoid the crowd; allow 2–3 hours for the visit; be sure to walk across the Bridge of Sighs and look into the prison; wear comfortable shoes.
In the Doge`s Palace, councils sat, fates were decided, conspiracies were woven, and masterpieces were created. From the filigree loggias to the gloomy cells of the Piombi, from Tintoretto`s "Paradise" to the "lion`s mouth" — each hall tells its own story. The palace is worth spending several hours in.
