Imagine a city where ancient arenas remember gladiator fights, medieval bridges keep secrets of conspiracies, and every balcony seems like that one—from which Juliet listened to Romeo`s words. Verona is not just a city in the Veneto region. It is an amazing fusion of Roman power, medieval austerity, and Renaissance elegance.
There is less hustle here than in the capitals, but the concentration of beauty and atmosphere is so great that UNESCO has inscribed the entire historic center of Verona on the World Heritage List. It is a city you fall in love with at first sight and forever.
History of Verona
The history of Verona began in the 3rd century BC, when a Celtic tribe settled here. In 89 BC, the city became the Roman colony of Mediolanum and quickly turned into an important strategic center. The Romans built monumental buildings, many of which have survived to this day.
In 489 AD, Verona became part of the Ostrogothic Kingdom and one of the residences of King Theodoric the Great. From 568 AD, under the Lombards, the city was the center of a duchy, and from 774 AD it became part of the Frankish state.
In the 12th century, Verona established itself as an independent city commune and actively participated in the struggle against the emperors of the Holy Roman Empire, joining the Lombard League, which defeated Frederick Barbarossa in 1176.
In 1262, Mastino della Scala seized power in the city. His family, the Scaligers, ruled Verona for over a hundred years, turning it into a prosperous state. Under them, the city was adorned with castles, bridges, and churches. In 1387, Verona was captured by the Milanese dukes Visconti, and in 1405 it voluntarily joined the Venetian Republic.
Almost four centuries of relative calm passed under Venetian rule. In 1797, under the Treaty of Campo Formio, Verona, together with Venice, was ceded to Austria. In 1866, the city became part of the unified Kingdom of Italy.
Today, Verona is the administrative center of the province, the second-largest city in the Veneto region with a population of about 260,000 people. It is a major transport hub on the routes from Venice to Milan and from Italy to Austria via the Brenner Pass.
Architecture of Verona
The architecture of Verona is a unique blend of styles and eras, where Roman power neighbors Lombard Romanesque, the austere Gothic of the Scaligers coexists with elegant Venetian Renaissance.
Roman Era in Verona
From the ancient period, Verona has preserved majestic monuments. The Arena di Verona is the third-largest surviving Roman amphitheater after the Colosseum and the Amphitheater of Capua. Built in the 1st century AD from pink and white marble, it held up to 30,000 spectators and is still used for opera performances.
The Roman Theater from the late 1st century BC is located on the left bank of the Adige River. Next to it is the Archaeological Museum. Also preserved are the Porta Borsari (1st century BC — 1st century AD), an ancient city gate, the 1st-century Arco dei Gavi, and the Ponte Pietra bridge, dating back to antiquity.
Romanesque in Verona
Verona is one of the main centers of Lombard Romanesque architecture. The Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore (5th century, rebuilt in the 9th century and in 1120-1138) is a masterpiece of the Romanesque style. The Church of San Lorenzo (c. 1110) with its two round towers, the Cathedral (1139-1187) with works by Titian, the Church of Santo Stefano (founded in the 5th century, rebuilt in the 8th and 12th centuries) — all create the unique appearance of old Verona.
Gothic in Verona
Under the Scaligers, Verona acquired austere Gothic features. Castelvecchio Castle (1354-1375) with the Scaliger Bridge, the Scaliger Palace (late 13th century), the Gothic churches of Sant`Anastasia (1291-1323 and 1422-1481) and San Fermo Maggiore (1313-1319) with frescoes by Pisanello. The pinnacle of Gothic sculpture is the tombs of the Scaliger family (13th-14th centuries) with openwork canopies and equestrian statues.
Renaissance and Baroque in Verona
In the 15th-18th centuries, under Venetian influence, Verona was enriched with Renaissance and Baroque buildings. The Loggia del Consiglio (1476-1492) is a gem of the early Renaissance. Architect Michele Sanmicheli built a series of palaces (Canossa, Pompei, Bevilacqua) and city gates (Porta Nuova, 1533-1540). Palazzo Maffei (1628-1668) is an example of Veronese Baroque on Piazza delle Erbe.
Sights of Verona
Roman Monuments of Verona
• Arena di Verona is the symbol of the city, located on Piazza Bra. This 1st-century amphitheater staggers the imagination: 152 meters long, 123 meters wide, 44 tiers, seating 22,000 spectators. Today, the famous opera festival, founded in 1913, takes place here. On summer evenings, "Aida," "La Traviata," and other masterpieces sound under the open sky.
• Roman Theater — ruins of an ancient theater at the foot of San Pietro hill. Here is the Archaeological Museum with a rich collection of antiquities.
• Porta Borsari — an ancient 1st-century gate through which the Via Postumia entered the city. The powerful white stone arch still serves as a city gate.
• Arco dei Gavi — a 1st-century triumphal arch, reconstructed in 1930 from original fragments.
Squares and Palaces of Verona
Piazza delle Erbe is the heart of Verona, located on the site of the ancient forum. It is the city`s most picturesque square, bustling with a morning market. It is surrounded by colorful buildings from different eras: the Gothic Casa dei Mercanti (1301), the Baroque
Palazzo Maffei (1668) with its colonnade and statues, the Torre del Gardello (1370). In the center of the square is the Verona Madonna fountain with an ancient Roman statue.
Piazza dei Signori is an elegant square surrounded by palaces of power. Here are the Palazzo del Comune (begun in 1193), the
Scaliger Palace (late 13th century), the Loggia del Consiglio (1475-1492) — one of Verona`s first Renaissance façades. In the center is a monument to Dante (1865).
Juliet`s House is a place of pilgrimage for romantics from all over the world. This 13th-century medieval house really belonged to the Dal Cappello family — the prototype of the Capulet family. The famous balcony was added in the 20th century. In the courtyard stands a bronze statue of Juliet — tradition says you should rub the statue`s right breast for luck in love.
Juliet`s Tomb is located in a former Capuchin monastery. The red marble sarcophagus where, according to legend, Juliet lies, is surrounded by a wall covered with letters from lovers.
Castles and Bridges of Verona
Castelvecchio Castle is a powerful 14th-century fortress, built under Cangrande II della Scala in 1354-1375. The rectangular castle with crenellated walls and six towers protected the city and simultaneously served as the rulers` residence. Adjacent to the castle is the Scaliger Bridge — a unique fortification structure 120 meters long, a covered passage over the Adige River. The bridge was blown up in 1945 and rebuilt in the post-war years. Today, the castle houses a museum with a collection of medieval art.
Ponte Pietra is Verona`s oldest bridge, dating back to Roman times. Destroyed during the war, it was rebuilt in 1957-1959.
Churches and Cathedrals of Verona
Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore is one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in Italy. Built in 1120-1138 on the site of an earlier 5th-century church where the relics of Saint Zeno, patron saint of Verona, rest. The façade of golden tufa is adorned with a "rose window" — the "Wheel of Fortune" with figures rising and being cast down by fate. The main treasure is the bronze doors from the 11th-12th centuries with 48 panels depicting biblical scenes. Inside is a three-aisled basilica with a wooden ceiling, a crypt with the saint`s relics, and an altarpiece by Andrea Mantegna.
Cathedral of Santa Maria Matricolare was begun in the 12th century, consecrated in 1187. In the 15th century it acquired late Gothic features. The portal is the work of Master Nicolò (the same one who created the portal of San Zeno) with twisted columns on griffins. Inside are masterpieces: "The Adoration of the Magi" by Liberale da Verona and Titian`s "Assumption of the Virgin" (1535).
Church of Sant`Anastasia is Verona`s largest church, built by the Dominicans in 1291-1481 in the Gothic style. The façade remained unfinished, but inside is a true treasure trove: Pisanello`s fresco "St. George and the Princess," chapels of noble families, two "hunchbacks" (gonzoni) at the entrance — stone holy water stoups supported by figures of hunchbacks.
Church of San Fermo Maggiore is a unique temple combining an 11th-century Romanesque crypt and an upper Gothic church from 1313-1319. Inside are frescoes by Pisanello and a 14th-century wooden crucifix.
Church of San Lorenzo is a rare example of Romanesque architecture with two round towers flanking the façade (c. 1110). Inside, matronea — galleries for women — are preserved.
Museums and Galleries of Verona
Castelvecchio Museum is located within the castle walls, founded in 1812. A very rich collection of art from antiquity to the 18th century: sculpture, painting, weapons, ceramics. The exhibition was arranged by architect Carlo Scarpa in 1956-1964.
Archaeological Museum is located in the former monastery of San Girolamo on the grounds of the Roman Theater. Ancient sculptures, mosaics, inscriptions, bronzes.
Gallery of Modern Art is housed in the 18th-century Palazzo Emilei Forti. Works from the 19th-20th centuries.
Giovanni Battista Cavalcaselle Fresco Museum is in the former monastery of San Francesco, where, according to tradition, Romeo and Juliet were married. Frescoes removed from the walls of destroyed buildings.
Gardens and Panoramas of Verona
San Pietro Hill is Verona`s best viewpoint. From here, a stunning panorama opens onto the entire historic center, the bends of the Adige River, bridges, and the city`s rooftops. Accessible via stairs or a funicular.
Giardino Giusti is one of Italy`s most beautiful Renaissance gardens (16th century). Terraces, grottoes, fountains, statues, and a boxwood labyrinth offer views of the city.
Unusual Corners of Verona
• The Bone Chapel — the Church of San Bernardino with the Pellegrini Chapel, decorated with thousands of human bones (16th century). A place where people pray for the dead behind a wall of skulls.
• The House with the Ear — a palazzo on Via Cavalca via where, according to legend, one could eavesdrop on the rulers` conversations through a special opening.
• Porta Leoni — ancient Roman gates from the 1st century with sculptures of lions, incorporated into the medieval walls.
• Veronetta Quarter — a left-bank district with narrow streets where time stopped several centuries ago.
Practical Tips for Tourists in Verona
• Book tickets in advance. For opera at the Arena, it`s best to buy tickets several months ahead. For Juliet`s Tomb and the Castelvecchio Museum, buy online to avoid queues.
• Verona Card. A tourist card for 1 or 2 days gives free entry to major museums and churches, as well as free public transport.
• Opening hours. Many churches close for a siesta from 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM and are not open on Sundays during services. Check the schedule.
• Transport. The historic center is compact, all sights are within walking distance. Buses are only needed for trips to San Pietro Hill or the station.
• Where to eat. Look for authentic trattorias in the Veronetta district and on streets away from the main squares. Be sure to try risotto with Amarone, pumpkin pasta, horse meat (pastissada de caval), and Veronese wines — Amarone, Valpolicella, Soave.
• Drink. The area around Piazza delle Erbe is famous for aperitifs. Order a Spritz — they make it here in a special way, with local sparkling wine.
Verona is not just a city. It is a place where history ceases to be a museum exhibit and becomes the living fabric of everyday life. Here you can sit on the steps of a Roman arena, sipping coffee, enter a church where Titian painted an altarpiece, and that same evening listen to opera under the stars.
